It has taken me a little longer than expected to get this posted, but now it’s mom’s turn to describe the Cameroon trip! Ian already covered much of the week, so she’ll fill in with some of her own observations:
Since we’ve been back I’ve been trying to write something but I can’t seem to get my head around it all. It was truly an assault on the senses, so I think I’ll just take it from that angle.
Sights
We landed in Yaounde, got off the plane and before noticing the flat landscape dotted with mud huts I noticed the row of soldiers with weapons lining the side of the tarmac.
Daniel’s height makes him easy to spot in a crowd here at home, but in Cameroon he seems to be just average, if not a bit below! But the nice Irish skin tone made him impossible to miss!
The colors that stick in my mind are green (just at the end of the rainy season) and red brown dirt.
The markets just swell with color, from the colorful fabrics (pagne) to the spices, spilling over the stacked bowls on display.
Sounds
The call to prayer takes place five times a day. A male voice calls out “Allah Ahkbar”, business stops and our car pulls to the side of the road so the driver and our local companions can stop in at the local mosque. Focus is placed on the spiritual.
Little boys (it seems the girls have work to do even at a young age) following along beside us, calling out “Nassarra! Bonjour!” Speaking back to them elicited lots of laughter, on both sides.
Early morning cadence being called out by the training army guys near our hotel.
Booming music coming out of bars along the road in the city. Close your eyes, and you could be anywhere in the US, if not for the smells.
The sound of lizards running around over our heads on a tin roof at night. Don’t those things ever sleep??
The way Daniel’s friend, Oumarou Nassourou, spoke. He had a beautiful voice, a nice laugh, and always prefaced speaking to me with “Daniel’s mother”, as in “Daniels mother, do you like Cameroon?”
Smells
Spaghetti Omelette. Yep, that’s what I said. Take some cooked spaghetti, a really hot wok/frying pan, a kerosene fueled burner. Heat the pasta with some garlic and onions,add some local spice mixture, toss in a couple of fresh, slightly beaten eggs (really fresh - the chicken is sitting right there), cook the death out of it (seriously - no amoebas could survive that heat!).
A slight smoky smell as soon as the sun set. No food being cooked during daylight hours during Ramadan and at sunset the street Mamas start cooking all sorts of things. I didn’t usually smell the food, but the fires were fragrant. Everything we had with us smelled of the smoke for a little while after we left Cameroon.
I can honestly say that I relieved myself in more interesting places than I care to remember. But I did it, and survived!
Flying in our taxi through the streets on Yaounde on a Friday night (heading to the airport) we caught the most amazing smells of food cooking along the road and at many many roadside nightclubs (which consist of a palm roof or a tin roof on 4 poles, some colored strings of lights and booming music).
Touch
Well, I honestly tried to avoid touching much in Cameroon. and if I did touch things I was a little like Mr.Monk with his hand sanitizer wipes. But I managed to stay healthy for the most part! I can admit now that I’m back that I was feeling pretty poorly most of the time there - but hard to complain when your host has an acute case of malaria. And then I was told by Dan’s counterpart that the start of school would be delayed a few weeks because of the cholera outbreak. Talk about getting things in perspective
I did shake lots of hands, and I didn’t do the sanitizer thing then! People were warm, and genuinely interested in meeting Daniel’s parents.
I learned quickly not to touch things in the market. If something is touched, men appear out of the dark corners and begin to show everything in their booth. So I put my hands behind my back and just looked. Then they use the phrase “pleasure your eyes, lady, pleasure your eyes”.
Taste
The most exotic thing I tasted was Follere juice. It was dark red/purple and is made by boiling down the follere flowers and sweetening up and watering down the juice. It tasted like a cross between grape and blackcurrant juice.
Spaghetti Omelette from the night market was pretty tasty. I don’t know what spices were in it, but it hit the spot that night.
I’m trying to decide what my favorite part of this trip was. The kids were a highlight for me, and I didn’t mind them calling Nassarra out to us. At one point I took pictures of some little boys that had gathered around and they were having so much fun looking at their pictures on the camera. And I had so much fun showing them. (However, I did have to get them to put their hands behind their backs because they kept grabbing at the camera!). I liked meeting Dan’s fellow volunteers. I’ve been following some of their blogs and seeing them in person helped make their online news come to life. But I think the best part was meeting the people Daniel has been working with and seeing the impact he and all the other PCV’s there have had. I’m not going to get all mushy here and brag about Dan, and talk about Kennedy and the idea of the Peace Corps, and generally be a sappy mom. Daniel would just edit it anyway! I’ll probably never get back to Cameroon, but a few years ago I wasn’t even sure where it was. So who knows?
By Maeve Archibald
10.27.2010
10.04.2010
Ian and Maeve's African Adventure
by Ian Archibald
Recently Maeve and I traveled to Cameroon for an adventure chaperoned by our son Daniel. On approaching Cameroon I thought we would be able to categorize our adventure into “the good, the bad, and the ugly.” A week later we emerged from the country with many wonderful experiences, especially remembering the many friends our son has connected with, both fellow Americans as well as local Cameroonians. In hindsight I think it would be more appropriate to think of our trip in terms of the amazing, the surprising, and the downright scary.
The Amazing:
-When your son has been away from home for two years in Africa your imagination has you concerned. Traveling with him to his village in the Extreme North region of Cameroon, we were amazed by the kind of reception and warm welcome we received. We did not get to meet all of Daniel's friends, but these people with very little to offer other than themselves and their hospitality were wonderful and engaging. We could learn some lessons here.
-Daniel's surroundings/living conditions could be best described as a low level Boy Scout camp with a roof. His recruiter at Peace Corps asked him before his departure in 2008 whether he was comfortable living in “sub standard housing.” He has clearly adapted well.
Inside Dan's House
The Backyard
-The Thursday “Grand Marche” was the highlight of our trip to Cameroon. This is the weekly market in Bogo. I think it is Cameroon's answer to Walmart. It's all here. Longhorn cows, goats of many shades, and chickens....yes, alive with their feet tied together sharing space on a long stick so they can be carried around...fast food of a sort. Bicycle parts, fabric, tailors to work with the fabric, fresh produce and meat, beds, spices by the wheelbarrow load. Everything you could possibly need you will find here.
Shopping around for some poultry
Local Tailors at work
Fabric for sale
The Bogo butchers
Spices
-Also, Cameroon boasts 32 oz bottles of beer for $1!!
-And who knew spaghetti omelets in the Bogo night market would taste that good?
-We didn't go on safari but we did visit a primate reclamation project which saves young primates whose parents have been killed by poachers for bush meat. Seeing lowland gorillas, baboons, chimpanzees, and several species of monkeys in a Jurassic Park-like enclosure was wonderful. The project is supported by the U.S. Government.
The Surprising:
-We traveled to Yaounde, Cameroon, via Brussels Airways and traveled internally to Maroua on a domestic carrier called Air Leasing. Forget the old cliches; these airlines were efficient, comfortable, and on time!
-It's really green in Cameroon in August. It was also in the 80's which was quite pleasant. Definitely some humidity, but still comfortable. And it rained everyday! Toto was correct.
-And how about $10 bottles of Bordeaux red wine?!?
-Daniel and I had an encounter with the hospital services in Cameroon. It was clean, efficient, and get this: 2 visits with the doctor, 3 lab tests and a prescription....total cost: $65. Total time: 2 hours! More on the reason for the visit later.
-The place is teeming with motorcycles. 90% of them are made in China. French colonialism may be gone, but look out for China in Africa.
Moto taxis going about their work in Maroua
A more traditional form of locomotion, en route to the Bogo market
And you won't find an inch of spare room in the vehicles
-Everyone has heard about AIDS in Africa. It is a very serious problem. However, outside the main cities, particularly in the Extreme North, I understand that it is not as common as in other areas of the country. Why? One explanation could be that these people are religious, and predominantly Muslim in the northern region of the country. The girls are typically married at a young age and stay within family units. Men pray up to 5 times daily and most seem very committed to their families, even if it includes more than one wife. On our way out of Cameroon we stayed briefly in a nice hotel room in Yaounde- complete with condoms in each bedside table!
-The women are dressed in the most beautiful, colorful outfits. Unfortunately that may be the best part about their life. If you looked closely they usually had an infant on their backs and a large load atop their head, all while doing their daily work.
The Downright Scary:
-Malaria and other bugs. Daniel had an acute case of malaria while we were visiting. Seeing your 27 year old athletic son start complaining about knee pain, then total body aching, and spiking fever (103.9) within 24 hours is scary. Fortunately the Peace Corps supplies emergency meds for this eventuality and it works. Despite this Daniel has lost 30 lbs during his time in Cameroon likely due to the microbiologic assault on his GI system. McDonalds quarter pound cheeseburgers await his return.
-My own experience is tame by comparison, but despite taking care to eat only cooked food, perhaps because I like being an adventurous eater, it only took a couple of days before a war commenced in my colon. The American choleforms vs. the Cameroonian choleforms. The American guys put up a good fight but things got gurgly. Cameroonian toilets can pose a challenge, trying to squirt into a 6” hole in the floor....well, you get the picture.
-Speaking of toilets, they don't exist outside of cities. Just a hole in the ground. Is it any wonder cholera rears its ugly head?
-Cameroonian cab drivers make their NYC equivalents look lame. There guys can go four abreast on a two lane highway without a second thought. Now, we live in North Carolina – better known as NASCAR nation due to the local driving habits. As a university student I drove city buses for income. I don't flinch too often, but Cameroonian cab drivers have no fear. It's all about getting the nose of your rundown jalopy in front of your neighbor and not letting up. Traffic circles are particularly interesting. While the U.S. has few of these they are very common around the world. The basic principle of the traffic circle is that as you approach you give way to any traffic in the circle. Thereby an orderly movement of traffic occurs. Not in Cameroon. You just charge into the traffic in the circle and play your own game of chicken, totally defeating the purpose of the circle. Not for the faint of heart. It was chaos.
-The foulest smell I encountered in Cameroon was not the septic system...or total lack. It was the fish section of the Grand Marche in Bogo. There was at least a dozen vendors selling smoked fish. It was the foulest stench you can imagine. Maybe that's where Asian fish sauce comes from!
Smoked fish, Mmmmm!
Some Final Thoughts:
We are very proud of the work our son has done. We met an older lady, Daniel's “Cameroonian mother,” who had benefited from his agricultural work. Due to Daniel's efforts in her orchard she was able to use the additional income it produced to make a pilgrimage to Mecca this year...for her a life changing event.
Daniel's friends Djawe Blawe and Oumarou Nassourou are hardworking, entertaining, and self educated people who are using every opportunity they have to improve their situation. They want a better life. No social security network in Cameroon!
Unfortunately the big picture in Africa is still bleak. The infrastructure is poor to nonexistent. Cellphone towers seem to be the only new construction anywhere. This brief exposure to Africa was enlightening. We urge all Peace Corps parents to make this trip. At no time did we feel unsafe in Cameroon (although we have heard from multiple sources to avoid Douala!). We are very glad we made the trip.
Dan and his friend Djawe in some striking Obama outfits
From left: Djawe, Baka, and Dan in Djawe's music and video store in the Bogo night market
Produce stand at the Marche Abatoire in Maroua
From left: Oumarou (Dan's counterpart), Maeve, our driver Saliou, and Ian
Saliou picking out his chicken on the road to Bogo
In Bogo with Dan's Cameroonian mother
Curious kids coming to check out the nassarras
Having a few $1 brews and grilled fish with some PCVs at the Auckland City Bar in Yaounde
Post Script
by Dan
To say that having my folks here for just over a week was enjoyable would be an understatement. I could ramble on about my life here to no end, and if you've read this blog before you'll know that I often do just that. Yet one really must see it to believe it and I'm immensely happy that they could do just that, even if it was only for a short time. With that said I think my mother will tell you that it was long enough, thank you very much!
I must applaud them for their bravado and adventurous spirit. I don't hesitate in saying that Cameroon is a wonderful place to live or just visit, but it is certainly not for the faint of heart. My old man took everything in stride, embraced the laidback nature of life here, and didn't have one single Type-A moment. And it's always nice to have someone around who shares my enthusiasm for giant $1 beers.
True to form, even despite the language barrier, my mother conversated with just about any Cameroonian within earshot. And Cameroonian vendors must have been forewarned about her presence in the country, as they seemed to instinctively know that she is a shopper of international renown. I think the fact that Ian and I kept all their currency in our wallets was the only thing keeping them from leaving with more stuff than they came with.
So thanks for coming...It was great having you here, and I hope it was as enjoyable for you as it was for me. My friends and colleagues that you had the opportunity to meet still ask how you are doing, and while you only spent a week with us here I'm sure they'll remember you fondly for a long time to come.
Recently Maeve and I traveled to Cameroon for an adventure chaperoned by our son Daniel. On approaching Cameroon I thought we would be able to categorize our adventure into “the good, the bad, and the ugly.” A week later we emerged from the country with many wonderful experiences, especially remembering the many friends our son has connected with, both fellow Americans as well as local Cameroonians. In hindsight I think it would be more appropriate to think of our trip in terms of the amazing, the surprising, and the downright scary.
The Amazing:
-When your son has been away from home for two years in Africa your imagination has you concerned. Traveling with him to his village in the Extreme North region of Cameroon, we were amazed by the kind of reception and warm welcome we received. We did not get to meet all of Daniel's friends, but these people with very little to offer other than themselves and their hospitality were wonderful and engaging. We could learn some lessons here.
-Daniel's surroundings/living conditions could be best described as a low level Boy Scout camp with a roof. His recruiter at Peace Corps asked him before his departure in 2008 whether he was comfortable living in “sub standard housing.” He has clearly adapted well.
Inside Dan's House
The Backyard-The Thursday “Grand Marche” was the highlight of our trip to Cameroon. This is the weekly market in Bogo. I think it is Cameroon's answer to Walmart. It's all here. Longhorn cows, goats of many shades, and chickens....yes, alive with their feet tied together sharing space on a long stick so they can be carried around...fast food of a sort. Bicycle parts, fabric, tailors to work with the fabric, fresh produce and meat, beds, spices by the wheelbarrow load. Everything you could possibly need you will find here.
Shopping around for some poultry
Local Tailors at work
Fabric for sale
The Bogo butchers
Spices-Also, Cameroon boasts 32 oz bottles of beer for $1!!
-And who knew spaghetti omelets in the Bogo night market would taste that good?
-We didn't go on safari but we did visit a primate reclamation project which saves young primates whose parents have been killed by poachers for bush meat. Seeing lowland gorillas, baboons, chimpanzees, and several species of monkeys in a Jurassic Park-like enclosure was wonderful. The project is supported by the U.S. Government.
The Surprising:
-We traveled to Yaounde, Cameroon, via Brussels Airways and traveled internally to Maroua on a domestic carrier called Air Leasing. Forget the old cliches; these airlines were efficient, comfortable, and on time!
-It's really green in Cameroon in August. It was also in the 80's which was quite pleasant. Definitely some humidity, but still comfortable. And it rained everyday! Toto was correct.
-And how about $10 bottles of Bordeaux red wine?!?
-Daniel and I had an encounter with the hospital services in Cameroon. It was clean, efficient, and get this: 2 visits with the doctor, 3 lab tests and a prescription....total cost: $65. Total time: 2 hours! More on the reason for the visit later.
-The place is teeming with motorcycles. 90% of them are made in China. French colonialism may be gone, but look out for China in Africa.
Moto taxis going about their work in Maroua
A more traditional form of locomotion, en route to the Bogo market
And you won't find an inch of spare room in the vehicles-Everyone has heard about AIDS in Africa. It is a very serious problem. However, outside the main cities, particularly in the Extreme North, I understand that it is not as common as in other areas of the country. Why? One explanation could be that these people are religious, and predominantly Muslim in the northern region of the country. The girls are typically married at a young age and stay within family units. Men pray up to 5 times daily and most seem very committed to their families, even if it includes more than one wife. On our way out of Cameroon we stayed briefly in a nice hotel room in Yaounde- complete with condoms in each bedside table!
-The women are dressed in the most beautiful, colorful outfits. Unfortunately that may be the best part about their life. If you looked closely they usually had an infant on their backs and a large load atop their head, all while doing their daily work.
The Downright Scary:
-Malaria and other bugs. Daniel had an acute case of malaria while we were visiting. Seeing your 27 year old athletic son start complaining about knee pain, then total body aching, and spiking fever (103.9) within 24 hours is scary. Fortunately the Peace Corps supplies emergency meds for this eventuality and it works. Despite this Daniel has lost 30 lbs during his time in Cameroon likely due to the microbiologic assault on his GI system. McDonalds quarter pound cheeseburgers await his return.
-My own experience is tame by comparison, but despite taking care to eat only cooked food, perhaps because I like being an adventurous eater, it only took a couple of days before a war commenced in my colon. The American choleforms vs. the Cameroonian choleforms. The American guys put up a good fight but things got gurgly. Cameroonian toilets can pose a challenge, trying to squirt into a 6” hole in the floor....well, you get the picture.
-Speaking of toilets, they don't exist outside of cities. Just a hole in the ground. Is it any wonder cholera rears its ugly head?
-Cameroonian cab drivers make their NYC equivalents look lame. There guys can go four abreast on a two lane highway without a second thought. Now, we live in North Carolina – better known as NASCAR nation due to the local driving habits. As a university student I drove city buses for income. I don't flinch too often, but Cameroonian cab drivers have no fear. It's all about getting the nose of your rundown jalopy in front of your neighbor and not letting up. Traffic circles are particularly interesting. While the U.S. has few of these they are very common around the world. The basic principle of the traffic circle is that as you approach you give way to any traffic in the circle. Thereby an orderly movement of traffic occurs. Not in Cameroon. You just charge into the traffic in the circle and play your own game of chicken, totally defeating the purpose of the circle. Not for the faint of heart. It was chaos.
-The foulest smell I encountered in Cameroon was not the septic system...or total lack. It was the fish section of the Grand Marche in Bogo. There was at least a dozen vendors selling smoked fish. It was the foulest stench you can imagine. Maybe that's where Asian fish sauce comes from!
Smoked fish, Mmmmm!Some Final Thoughts:
We are very proud of the work our son has done. We met an older lady, Daniel's “Cameroonian mother,” who had benefited from his agricultural work. Due to Daniel's efforts in her orchard she was able to use the additional income it produced to make a pilgrimage to Mecca this year...for her a life changing event.
Daniel's friends Djawe Blawe and Oumarou Nassourou are hardworking, entertaining, and self educated people who are using every opportunity they have to improve their situation. They want a better life. No social security network in Cameroon!
Unfortunately the big picture in Africa is still bleak. The infrastructure is poor to nonexistent. Cellphone towers seem to be the only new construction anywhere. This brief exposure to Africa was enlightening. We urge all Peace Corps parents to make this trip. At no time did we feel unsafe in Cameroon (although we have heard from multiple sources to avoid Douala!). We are very glad we made the trip.
Dan and his friend Djawe in some striking Obama outfits
From left: Djawe, Baka, and Dan in Djawe's music and video store in the Bogo night market
Produce stand at the Marche Abatoire in Maroua
From left: Oumarou (Dan's counterpart), Maeve, our driver Saliou, and Ian
Saliou picking out his chicken on the road to Bogo
In Bogo with Dan's Cameroonian mother
Curious kids coming to check out the nassarras
Having a few $1 brews and grilled fish with some PCVs at the Auckland City Bar in YaoundePost Script
by Dan
To say that having my folks here for just over a week was enjoyable would be an understatement. I could ramble on about my life here to no end, and if you've read this blog before you'll know that I often do just that. Yet one really must see it to believe it and I'm immensely happy that they could do just that, even if it was only for a short time. With that said I think my mother will tell you that it was long enough, thank you very much!
I must applaud them for their bravado and adventurous spirit. I don't hesitate in saying that Cameroon is a wonderful place to live or just visit, but it is certainly not for the faint of heart. My old man took everything in stride, embraced the laidback nature of life here, and didn't have one single Type-A moment. And it's always nice to have someone around who shares my enthusiasm for giant $1 beers.
True to form, even despite the language barrier, my mother conversated with just about any Cameroonian within earshot. And Cameroonian vendors must have been forewarned about her presence in the country, as they seemed to instinctively know that she is a shopper of international renown. I think the fact that Ian and I kept all their currency in our wallets was the only thing keeping them from leaving with more stuff than they came with.
So thanks for coming...It was great having you here, and I hope it was as enjoyable for you as it was for me. My friends and colleagues that you had the opportunity to meet still ask how you are doing, and while you only spent a week with us here I'm sure they'll remember you fondly for a long time to come.
9.15.2010
Beaches, Buffets, Borders, and Yard Sales
It's hard to believe but my time here in Cameroon is almost done. 79 days from now (not that I'm keeping track) I will depart this fine land, taking a quick detour through Europe with a few friends before arriving back in the U.S. shortly before Christmas.
It's a strange time in my Peace Corps service. My work has all but finished and there is really no time to begin new projects. People in Bogo are well aware of my imminent departure which throws up a whole host of difficulties (explained below). The group of volunteers that will replace us in December are scheduled to arrive in country in the next few days for training and come November that extremely lucky volunteer that has been chosen to replace me will visit Bogo for a week to get acquainted with what will become his or her new home. Furthermore I've recently tried to use the remainder of my vacation time to see as much of this lovely country as possible.
Kribi Beach Vacation, August 18-22
Kribi is a small beach town on the coast of Cameroon situated about 3 hours south of the capital, Yaounde. A group of us spent some time there this past month and it was a greatly needed respite from village life (although it was most likely where I contracted my recent case of malaria). For four days we lounged around at a small hotel right on the beach. Swimming around in the rough surf and having bonfires on the beach occupied most of our time. The only reason to leave the peaceful confines of our hotel was to make a daily trek into town where at the central harbor fishermen sold whatever catch they had brought in that morning. And right next to the fish market were numerous 'mamas' who, for a small fee, would cook up whatever we had purchased in their grills (old truck wheels) with a delicious ginger/garlic/hot sauce blend. I couldn't remember the last time I had eaten seafood yet in the span of just 3 days I gorged myself on heaps of shrimp, whitefish, lobster, stingray and shark. Making up for lost time never tasted so good.
COS Conference, August 23-27
The Peace Corps recently hosted our group of volunteers at the Mount Febe Hotel in Yaounde for our Close of Service(COS) conference. The purpose of the COS conference is to begin the arduous task of completing all the paperwork that is required from a volunteer before he/she can leave the country. It is no small task and will require a large portion of my free time over the next few months. Aside from the endless administrative checklist COS conference is also an opportunity for volunteers to reflect upon the past two years, make sense of the past two years (not as easy as it sounds), begin thinking about the transition back to the United States or wherever else one might go, and provide feedback to Peace Corps staff on how the program could be improved upon.
Sure these are all extremely important things to do prior to departure. But what is the most important aspect of the COS conference, you ask? That would be the fact that for one week Peace Corps puts us up in one of the nicest hotels in Yaounde for a week where we eat western food buffet style three meals a day. Keep in mind that we are talking about volunteers, most of whom have been out in the bush eating sandy cous cous and leaf sauce for the past two years. To be quite honest I think the Mount Febe staff are shocked by how dozens of Americans who have been out in the bush for extended periods react to such nice accomodations. Then again they have dealt with the Peace Corps COS conference twice a year for many years (I've been told that we are no longer welcome at the Yaounde Hilton). To give another example I can count on one hand the number of warm showers I've had since September 2008. That was of course before I spent a week at the Mount Febe, where I believe I was averaging 2-3 warm showers a day in addition a nightly jump in the frigid pool. Preparation for the polar bear swims I plan to take in Mom and Dad's pool in Charlotte this December. Don't drain it for the winter!
A trip to the border
Another, less enjoyable excursion was my recent one night visit to the border with Nigeria in the North of the country. And no I did not cross over. I have no desire to be stuck in Nigeria. Seeing the border crossing however was very humorous. I set up in an auberge in the Cameroonian town of Amchide (Am-chee-day), which shares the border with the Nigerian town of Banki (Bunk-ee). The Amchide nightclub was surprisingly nice. I was half expecting some bizarre African version of that gunrunner bar on Tatooine in Star Wars. And I'm sure Michael Jackson would have been proud to know that on this particular night the DJ pumped 'Billie Jean' on the Cameroon/Nigeria border no less than six times.
Luckily the trip was uneventful. But long story short, barring an unforeseen need for smuggled weapons or petrol I won't be returning to Amchide anytime soon. I stepped in human feces a total of three times in 18 hours, the city streets are littered in filth, Nigerian beer isn't all that tasty, and people just generally seem far more shady and likely to relieve me of my possessions.
Parting is such sweet sorrow
December 3 is officially my last day in Cameroon. I'll most likely be leaving Bogo a week or two before in late November. Some volunteers have had big parties and lots of drawn out goodbyes before leaving. Others have not said a thing of their departure and then one day just vacate the premises to avoid all the attention. I can understand both approaches but I will be aiming for something in the middle of the two. When there is too much fanfare some people often try to take advantage of the situation and get anything they can out of the volunteer (Money or basically anything in the house that isn't nailed down). On the flip side when someone just leaves without saying a word people will most likely be very offended, and rightly so in my mind.
Click here to read an interesting way to go about solving this problem. Notice the lovely hat that PCV Brian Hillery is wearing in the photos as he sells the wares of departed volunteers.
So when I do leave, my friends and colleagues will most certainly know about it. I'll miss many people here very much. For two years they have treated me with unceasing hospitality. I honestly don't know that I want to spend anymore time as a volunteer in Bogo, but that doesn't go to say that it hasn't been a fantastic town to call home. When they ask me "so what are you doing with your TV/fridge/stove/bed/rugs/books/buckets/chairs/tables?," unfortunately for them I will tell them that its up to the person that replaces me. I would feel like a jerk if I let my house get ransacked and the new volunteer shows up to an empty house. And if he or she wants to have a yard sale upon arriving in Bogo (preferably while wearing funny hats) more power to 'em.
It's a strange time in my Peace Corps service. My work has all but finished and there is really no time to begin new projects. People in Bogo are well aware of my imminent departure which throws up a whole host of difficulties (explained below). The group of volunteers that will replace us in December are scheduled to arrive in country in the next few days for training and come November that extremely lucky volunteer that has been chosen to replace me will visit Bogo for a week to get acquainted with what will become his or her new home. Furthermore I've recently tried to use the remainder of my vacation time to see as much of this lovely country as possible.
Kribi Beach Vacation, August 18-22
Kribi is a small beach town on the coast of Cameroon situated about 3 hours south of the capital, Yaounde. A group of us spent some time there this past month and it was a greatly needed respite from village life (although it was most likely where I contracted my recent case of malaria). For four days we lounged around at a small hotel right on the beach. Swimming around in the rough surf and having bonfires on the beach occupied most of our time. The only reason to leave the peaceful confines of our hotel was to make a daily trek into town where at the central harbor fishermen sold whatever catch they had brought in that morning. And right next to the fish market were numerous 'mamas' who, for a small fee, would cook up whatever we had purchased in their grills (old truck wheels) with a delicious ginger/garlic/hot sauce blend. I couldn't remember the last time I had eaten seafood yet in the span of just 3 days I gorged myself on heaps of shrimp, whitefish, lobster, stingray and shark. Making up for lost time never tasted so good.
COS Conference, August 23-27
The Peace Corps recently hosted our group of volunteers at the Mount Febe Hotel in Yaounde for our Close of Service(COS) conference. The purpose of the COS conference is to begin the arduous task of completing all the paperwork that is required from a volunteer before he/she can leave the country. It is no small task and will require a large portion of my free time over the next few months. Aside from the endless administrative checklist COS conference is also an opportunity for volunteers to reflect upon the past two years, make sense of the past two years (not as easy as it sounds), begin thinking about the transition back to the United States or wherever else one might go, and provide feedback to Peace Corps staff on how the program could be improved upon.
Sure these are all extremely important things to do prior to departure. But what is the most important aspect of the COS conference, you ask? That would be the fact that for one week Peace Corps puts us up in one of the nicest hotels in Yaounde for a week where we eat western food buffet style three meals a day. Keep in mind that we are talking about volunteers, most of whom have been out in the bush eating sandy cous cous and leaf sauce for the past two years. To be quite honest I think the Mount Febe staff are shocked by how dozens of Americans who have been out in the bush for extended periods react to such nice accomodations. Then again they have dealt with the Peace Corps COS conference twice a year for many years (I've been told that we are no longer welcome at the Yaounde Hilton). To give another example I can count on one hand the number of warm showers I've had since September 2008. That was of course before I spent a week at the Mount Febe, where I believe I was averaging 2-3 warm showers a day in addition a nightly jump in the frigid pool. Preparation for the polar bear swims I plan to take in Mom and Dad's pool in Charlotte this December. Don't drain it for the winter!
A trip to the border
Another, less enjoyable excursion was my recent one night visit to the border with Nigeria in the North of the country. And no I did not cross over. I have no desire to be stuck in Nigeria. Seeing the border crossing however was very humorous. I set up in an auberge in the Cameroonian town of Amchide (Am-chee-day), which shares the border with the Nigerian town of Banki (Bunk-ee). The Amchide nightclub was surprisingly nice. I was half expecting some bizarre African version of that gunrunner bar on Tatooine in Star Wars. And I'm sure Michael Jackson would have been proud to know that on this particular night the DJ pumped 'Billie Jean' on the Cameroon/Nigeria border no less than six times.
Luckily the trip was uneventful. But long story short, barring an unforeseen need for smuggled weapons or petrol I won't be returning to Amchide anytime soon. I stepped in human feces a total of three times in 18 hours, the city streets are littered in filth, Nigerian beer isn't all that tasty, and people just generally seem far more shady and likely to relieve me of my possessions.
Parting is such sweet sorrow
December 3 is officially my last day in Cameroon. I'll most likely be leaving Bogo a week or two before in late November. Some volunteers have had big parties and lots of drawn out goodbyes before leaving. Others have not said a thing of their departure and then one day just vacate the premises to avoid all the attention. I can understand both approaches but I will be aiming for something in the middle of the two. When there is too much fanfare some people often try to take advantage of the situation and get anything they can out of the volunteer (Money or basically anything in the house that isn't nailed down). On the flip side when someone just leaves without saying a word people will most likely be very offended, and rightly so in my mind.
Click here to read an interesting way to go about solving this problem. Notice the lovely hat that PCV Brian Hillery is wearing in the photos as he sells the wares of departed volunteers.
So when I do leave, my friends and colleagues will most certainly know about it. I'll miss many people here very much. For two years they have treated me with unceasing hospitality. I honestly don't know that I want to spend anymore time as a volunteer in Bogo, but that doesn't go to say that it hasn't been a fantastic town to call home. When they ask me "so what are you doing with your TV/fridge/stove/bed/rugs/books/buckets/chairs/tables?," unfortunately for them I will tell them that its up to the person that replaces me. I would feel like a jerk if I let my house get ransacked and the new volunteer shows up to an empty house. And if he or she wants to have a yard sale upon arriving in Bogo (preferably while wearing funny hats) more power to 'em.
Cameroon in the News: September 2010
Hundreds die of cholera in Nigeria, Cameroon (CNN)
Cholera Concerns Increase as Children Head Back to School in Cameroon (Voice of America)
New Cameroon Airlines To Start Commercial Flights Next March (Nasdaq.com)
Belgian ship attacked in Cameroon (BBC)
Cameroon begins search for seized vessels (Independent Online)
Cameroon hopes Brazil project will boost cocoa output (Reuters)
Cameroon president sacks police chief, security head (Associated Press)
Cholera Concerns Increase as Children Head Back to School in Cameroon (Voice of America)
New Cameroon Airlines To Start Commercial Flights Next March (Nasdaq.com)
Belgian ship attacked in Cameroon (BBC)
Cameroon begins search for seized vessels (Independent Online)
Cameroon hopes Brazil project will boost cocoa output (Reuters)
Cameroon president sacks police chief, security head (Associated Press)
8.18.2010
Cameroon in the News: August 2010
Cameroon Govt., Expatriates Meet To Improve Business Climate (Wall Street Journal)
Cameroon appoint ex-Spain coach Clemente (ESPN)
Cholera outbreak kills 200 in Cameroon (CNN International)
China Cancels XAF2.1 Billion Of Cameroon's Debt (Wall Street Journal)
Cameroon's Government Welcomes Human Rights Research Mission (Voice of America)
Cameroon journalist fights deportation (The Guardian)
Cameroon appoint ex-Spain coach Clemente (ESPN)
Cholera outbreak kills 200 in Cameroon (CNN International)
China Cancels XAF2.1 Billion Of Cameroon's Debt (Wall Street Journal)
Cameroon's Government Welcomes Human Rights Research Mission (Voice of America)
Cameroon journalist fights deportation (The Guardian)
8.17.2010
Work Update
I recently received a comment asking what type of work I'm doing here in Northern Cameroon. I often ask myself that same exact question. After an hour or so of intermittent headaches and daydreaming about coldcut sandwiches and washing machines (two separate day dreams, although eating a turkey sandwich while my clothes are being put through the cycles sounds pretty awesome), I come to some conclusion on what I've done and what I hope continues here. To give you an idea my work schedule involves the following:
Mango Orchards:
-# of Orchards I work with: 10-15
-What do we do? In collaboration with L'Institut de Recherchement Agricole pour le Developpement (IRAD), a Cameroonian governement agency, we have treated numerous orchards in the Bogo area against destructive insect and fungus infestations with surprising success. Orchards that had not given fruit in almost two to three years began producing again; the reason being that the pesticides we used (dangerous but biodegradable) allowed the trees to produce flowers in December and January unfettered. In the past the pests would typically consume any flowers the trees had sprouted, hence making it impossible for any fruit production. Almost all of the local orchards were originally in complete disrepair and this will need a few more seasons of solid improvement to be seen as a success. Despite the challenges they face the local orchard owners have eagerly adopted the treatment process to the point that an outside development worker is no longer needed to oversee it.
-Here are a few other techniques that I've discussed with the owners that can help them keep their orchards healthy and productive:
Natural fertilizers- Bogo is a cattle town. The market on Thursday is one of the largest in the region for herders, not to mention that many families have their own cows. When one is butchered the horns are just about the only part of the animal that isn't used by anyone, save for a few enterprising artisans. Cow horns are full of nutrients and the sandy soil in Bogo is not. Placing these excess horns around the trunks of mango trees during the rainy season can give those trees many of the nutrients they need to stave off infection and hopefully produce better. It is not only cheap but also extremely effective. A Peace Corps volunteer stuck in a village with next to no resources, such as myself, looks to these types of simple things to make some type of difference.
Overgrafting- This would be filed under the category of things I really want to do but the information to do it is simply not available as far as I know. Many of these orchards are 30-40 years old. As a result, most of the mango trees are far past their prime years of fruit production. Most owners are hesitant to cut down a 50 foot mango tree, plant a seedling in its place and then wait another 3-5 years for it to produce. I don't blame them. This ain't an easy place to grow a tree. Hungry livestock, brutal dry spells and branch breaking winds can all cause a lot of problems for a seedling trying to take a permanent hold. Instead of cutting down these behemoths and starting from square one I've suggested another idea that was suggested to me by an IRAD director who is a specialist with fruit trees and, unluckily, has since been transferred to another post. Actually one would still cut the older trees down but only to just above the trunk. If the tree was still alive at the time it was cut down it should begin sprouting new branches. Selecting three branches that have sprouted on the trunk, one would then graft a small branch of another healthy and productive tree to them. If the graft takes, in about two seasons that old tree will once again be producing fruit at a much higher rate. Its a technique that is used frequently in commercial orchards but has yet to show up in this neck of the woods. Unfortunately it may be too late for me to undertake such a project but with my experience over the past few years and the contacts that I've collected my replacement could potentially do some really cool stuff.
Diversification- During mango season I can go to the Bogo market and buy a pile of three or four large and deliciously sweet mangoes for about 200-250 francs (30-50 cents). Many of the orchards here sell their fruit in Maroua and even as far away as Chad, but the prices do not get much better. I've told them how much one mango would sell for in an American supermarket and their eyes nearly fell out of their head. At this point we are light years away from providing you and yours with delicious Northern Cameroonian mangoes, so I've suggested that we look into replacing non-productive mango trees with other species that, while not producing as impressively as a healthy adult “manguier,” command a much better price in the local markets and are not nearly as time consuming to care for. Papaya, citrus, anacardium (cashew), and guava trees all fit the bill for this region and climate.
Organization- When I began visiting orchards back in 2009 it was like listening to a broken record. “My wells have collapsed.” “The trees are sick.” “The trees no longer produce.” “The animals keep eating my new trees.” “My orchard guardian is a useless drunk and sleeps through bandits stealing all the fruit during the night.” The last statement was only voiced by one orchard owner but too good to omit. As an aside, I wonder if its worse to be the guy who is too drunk off millet beer to protect the orchard or the guy whose trade in life is 'fruit bandit.' Back to the point, it became obvious that power in numbers could be extremely beneficial for these folks. Discussing problems they all have, finding possible solutions, sharing success/failure stories, pooling resources for larger projects, etc. Almost like a support group for Bogo orchard owners. If the government paperwork allows for it I want to call it Orchards Anonymous. Your 12 step program towards having kick ass fruit.
Tree Nurseries (Peppinieres)
-# of Nurseries I work with: 5
-What do we do? Every year, I work with local tree nurseries to germinate, grow and transplant as many trees as possible in the Bogo area. Many of them are fruit trees but there are also numerous forestry species. Not only do they improve soil fertility but they also provide fodder for animals, firewood for families, protection of fields from wind, products for local medicine men, and lumber for carpenters.
Reforestation- I don't have hard facts on how the environment in this area of the world has been and is changing. I don't know the annual rainfall or its fluctuations. I've only been here for two years and have no idea what the fertility of the soil was like decades ago. What I do know is that over hot tea, cous-cous and sauce, old men have told me about how they remember when there used to be forests in the Extreme North of Cameroon. While Bogo is still on the periphery of the fight against deforestation in Africa, the brutal truth is that the Sahara desert is upon us and encroaching. One thing I do know is that when I'm working in the fields and it is three thousand degrees outside, the shade of a nice tree makes it so that it is only two thousand nine hundred and eighty degrees. Planting a trees is good..I think that's something we can all agree on so let's leave it at that
Intercropping- This technique involves planting trees in a field where crops are also being grown. Many trees that grow well in the dry sandy conditions here also give back a great deal of nutrients to the soil, whether be it by the leaves that fall onto the ground or the nutrients that their root systems provide. By planting certain trees in one's field, over time a noticeable improvement in soil fertility will be evident.
Live Fencing- Many of the species that grow well here in the Sahel are trees that have very small leaves and are extremely thorny. These trees can be extremely useful when trying to protect a field of crops from animals. Imagine you have a field full of corn, millet, manioc, peanuts, beans, whatever. You'd like to protect this field from outside invaders but metal fencing is simply too expensive for most small scale African farmers. Instead, on the border around a field one can plant thorny trees 50-60cm apart. When they reach a certain height cut them down part of the way and they will begin to grow outwards, joining together to form a thorny, living barrier that can protect whatever it is you have in your field.
Income Generating- While many people that have begun tree nurseries in Bogo are altruistic individuals in many ways, the number one reason they do it is to make extra money. Your average forestry tree in Bogo will sell for 100 francs each (fruit trees, depending on the species, sell anywhere from 300-1500 francs). 100 francs is only about 25 cents, but when you are selling thousands of trees, 25 cents can add up. Currently I work with a couple nurseries that are already well established. One of them produces as many as 20,000 fruit and forestry trees a year. With these nurseries I mainly focus on experimenting with new species that could be beneficial. They have the wiggle room to mess around with new seeds that could potentially be useful in the future. As for the nurseries that I myself have established we work on a much smaller scale and mainly with trees that are tried and true in this environment. To give an example, this year I provided the inputs for two nurseries of 1,000 trees each . A plastic watering can is 4,000 francs. Plastic pots for 1,000 trees is roughly 10,000 francs. Seeds are free if you go out in the bush and find them, but I also put down about 3,000 francs for seeds that I knew were good quality. All said and done I spent about 17,000 francs ($28) to start a 1,000 tree nursery. The main expense are the plastic pots and having enough seeds to see that they are all filled by the end of the season when its time to sell. Currently the person managing the tree nursery stands to make about 75000-100000 francs ($150-200) when we sell the trees to clients that want them for their homes or fields. The gentleman who began the nursery had no way to spare the initial 17,000 francs to start it. However after this planting season he will take the money that he has made, pay me back, set aside a small amount for his family, and then place about 35,000 francs in a village savings account. Next year when it is time to begin the tree nurseries again, considering he still has his trusty watering can and knows where to get most of his seeds in the bush he'll have the money in his savings account to create at the least a 2,000-3,000 tree nursery. Keep in mind that this is not his principal means of income. He'll harvest his crops, keep some to sell when the price is right, save the rest to feed his family for (ideally) the year, but then once again be close to broke this time next year. We've gone over the numbers for the next few years, and if he sticks to it there is no reason why he cannot be doing close to 20,000 trees in five years. Tree nurseries can be lucrative but by no means a full time job. Yet if managed well they can be incredibly beneficial in supplementing the meager income that most families subsist on here year in and year out.
Experimental Gardens/Crop Introduction
In addition to the activities explained above, I've also planted numerous crops/veggies/herbs with which the locals are often unfamiliar. Much of this stems from my own curiosity but is also intended to find food crops that grow well in the dry climate and perhaps add to the diversity and nutrition the local diet. It is rarely successful, but for me its extremely interesting to see what works and what doesn't. To give an example, last year I tried 10-15 new varieties and/or species in local gardens. Out of all those, a mere three actually grew and produced well: Soybeans, butternut squash, and cilantro. This season we are trying another dozen or so food crops for their resistance to drought and/or their high nutrition value. A few examples of this year's trials: Quinoa, amaranth, marama beans, and forage peanuts (animal fodder) to name a few. I imagine that much like last year many of the crops will not adjust to the climate, but there is always the possibility that one or two of them could do well and perhaps over time become a useful source of nutrition.
Mango Orchards:
-# of Orchards I work with: 10-15
-What do we do? In collaboration with L'Institut de Recherchement Agricole pour le Developpement (IRAD), a Cameroonian governement agency, we have treated numerous orchards in the Bogo area against destructive insect and fungus infestations with surprising success. Orchards that had not given fruit in almost two to three years began producing again; the reason being that the pesticides we used (dangerous but biodegradable) allowed the trees to produce flowers in December and January unfettered. In the past the pests would typically consume any flowers the trees had sprouted, hence making it impossible for any fruit production. Almost all of the local orchards were originally in complete disrepair and this will need a few more seasons of solid improvement to be seen as a success. Despite the challenges they face the local orchard owners have eagerly adopted the treatment process to the point that an outside development worker is no longer needed to oversee it.
-Here are a few other techniques that I've discussed with the owners that can help them keep their orchards healthy and productive:
Natural fertilizers- Bogo is a cattle town. The market on Thursday is one of the largest in the region for herders, not to mention that many families have their own cows. When one is butchered the horns are just about the only part of the animal that isn't used by anyone, save for a few enterprising artisans. Cow horns are full of nutrients and the sandy soil in Bogo is not. Placing these excess horns around the trunks of mango trees during the rainy season can give those trees many of the nutrients they need to stave off infection and hopefully produce better. It is not only cheap but also extremely effective. A Peace Corps volunteer stuck in a village with next to no resources, such as myself, looks to these types of simple things to make some type of difference.
Overgrafting- This would be filed under the category of things I really want to do but the information to do it is simply not available as far as I know. Many of these orchards are 30-40 years old. As a result, most of the mango trees are far past their prime years of fruit production. Most owners are hesitant to cut down a 50 foot mango tree, plant a seedling in its place and then wait another 3-5 years for it to produce. I don't blame them. This ain't an easy place to grow a tree. Hungry livestock, brutal dry spells and branch breaking winds can all cause a lot of problems for a seedling trying to take a permanent hold. Instead of cutting down these behemoths and starting from square one I've suggested another idea that was suggested to me by an IRAD director who is a specialist with fruit trees and, unluckily, has since been transferred to another post. Actually one would still cut the older trees down but only to just above the trunk. If the tree was still alive at the time it was cut down it should begin sprouting new branches. Selecting three branches that have sprouted on the trunk, one would then graft a small branch of another healthy and productive tree to them. If the graft takes, in about two seasons that old tree will once again be producing fruit at a much higher rate. Its a technique that is used frequently in commercial orchards but has yet to show up in this neck of the woods. Unfortunately it may be too late for me to undertake such a project but with my experience over the past few years and the contacts that I've collected my replacement could potentially do some really cool stuff.
Diversification- During mango season I can go to the Bogo market and buy a pile of three or four large and deliciously sweet mangoes for about 200-250 francs (30-50 cents). Many of the orchards here sell their fruit in Maroua and even as far away as Chad, but the prices do not get much better. I've told them how much one mango would sell for in an American supermarket and their eyes nearly fell out of their head. At this point we are light years away from providing you and yours with delicious Northern Cameroonian mangoes, so I've suggested that we look into replacing non-productive mango trees with other species that, while not producing as impressively as a healthy adult “manguier,” command a much better price in the local markets and are not nearly as time consuming to care for. Papaya, citrus, anacardium (cashew), and guava trees all fit the bill for this region and climate.
Organization- When I began visiting orchards back in 2009 it was like listening to a broken record. “My wells have collapsed.” “The trees are sick.” “The trees no longer produce.” “The animals keep eating my new trees.” “My orchard guardian is a useless drunk and sleeps through bandits stealing all the fruit during the night.” The last statement was only voiced by one orchard owner but too good to omit. As an aside, I wonder if its worse to be the guy who is too drunk off millet beer to protect the orchard or the guy whose trade in life is 'fruit bandit.' Back to the point, it became obvious that power in numbers could be extremely beneficial for these folks. Discussing problems they all have, finding possible solutions, sharing success/failure stories, pooling resources for larger projects, etc. Almost like a support group for Bogo orchard owners. If the government paperwork allows for it I want to call it Orchards Anonymous. Your 12 step program towards having kick ass fruit.
Tree Nurseries (Peppinieres)
-# of Nurseries I work with: 5
-What do we do? Every year, I work with local tree nurseries to germinate, grow and transplant as many trees as possible in the Bogo area. Many of them are fruit trees but there are also numerous forestry species. Not only do they improve soil fertility but they also provide fodder for animals, firewood for families, protection of fields from wind, products for local medicine men, and lumber for carpenters.
Reforestation- I don't have hard facts on how the environment in this area of the world has been and is changing. I don't know the annual rainfall or its fluctuations. I've only been here for two years and have no idea what the fertility of the soil was like decades ago. What I do know is that over hot tea, cous-cous and sauce, old men have told me about how they remember when there used to be forests in the Extreme North of Cameroon. While Bogo is still on the periphery of the fight against deforestation in Africa, the brutal truth is that the Sahara desert is upon us and encroaching. One thing I do know is that when I'm working in the fields and it is three thousand degrees outside, the shade of a nice tree makes it so that it is only two thousand nine hundred and eighty degrees. Planting a trees is good..I think that's something we can all agree on so let's leave it at that
Intercropping- This technique involves planting trees in a field where crops are also being grown. Many trees that grow well in the dry sandy conditions here also give back a great deal of nutrients to the soil, whether be it by the leaves that fall onto the ground or the nutrients that their root systems provide. By planting certain trees in one's field, over time a noticeable improvement in soil fertility will be evident.
Live Fencing- Many of the species that grow well here in the Sahel are trees that have very small leaves and are extremely thorny. These trees can be extremely useful when trying to protect a field of crops from animals. Imagine you have a field full of corn, millet, manioc, peanuts, beans, whatever. You'd like to protect this field from outside invaders but metal fencing is simply too expensive for most small scale African farmers. Instead, on the border around a field one can plant thorny trees 50-60cm apart. When they reach a certain height cut them down part of the way and they will begin to grow outwards, joining together to form a thorny, living barrier that can protect whatever it is you have in your field.
Income Generating- While many people that have begun tree nurseries in Bogo are altruistic individuals in many ways, the number one reason they do it is to make extra money. Your average forestry tree in Bogo will sell for 100 francs each (fruit trees, depending on the species, sell anywhere from 300-1500 francs). 100 francs is only about 25 cents, but when you are selling thousands of trees, 25 cents can add up. Currently I work with a couple nurseries that are already well established. One of them produces as many as 20,000 fruit and forestry trees a year. With these nurseries I mainly focus on experimenting with new species that could be beneficial. They have the wiggle room to mess around with new seeds that could potentially be useful in the future. As for the nurseries that I myself have established we work on a much smaller scale and mainly with trees that are tried and true in this environment. To give an example, this year I provided the inputs for two nurseries of 1,000 trees each . A plastic watering can is 4,000 francs. Plastic pots for 1,000 trees is roughly 10,000 francs. Seeds are free if you go out in the bush and find them, but I also put down about 3,000 francs for seeds that I knew were good quality. All said and done I spent about 17,000 francs ($28) to start a 1,000 tree nursery. The main expense are the plastic pots and having enough seeds to see that they are all filled by the end of the season when its time to sell. Currently the person managing the tree nursery stands to make about 75000-100000 francs ($150-200) when we sell the trees to clients that want them for their homes or fields. The gentleman who began the nursery had no way to spare the initial 17,000 francs to start it. However after this planting season he will take the money that he has made, pay me back, set aside a small amount for his family, and then place about 35,000 francs in a village savings account. Next year when it is time to begin the tree nurseries again, considering he still has his trusty watering can and knows where to get most of his seeds in the bush he'll have the money in his savings account to create at the least a 2,000-3,000 tree nursery. Keep in mind that this is not his principal means of income. He'll harvest his crops, keep some to sell when the price is right, save the rest to feed his family for (ideally) the year, but then once again be close to broke this time next year. We've gone over the numbers for the next few years, and if he sticks to it there is no reason why he cannot be doing close to 20,000 trees in five years. Tree nurseries can be lucrative but by no means a full time job. Yet if managed well they can be incredibly beneficial in supplementing the meager income that most families subsist on here year in and year out.
Experimental Gardens/Crop Introduction
In addition to the activities explained above, I've also planted numerous crops/veggies/herbs with which the locals are often unfamiliar. Much of this stems from my own curiosity but is also intended to find food crops that grow well in the dry climate and perhaps add to the diversity and nutrition the local diet. It is rarely successful, but for me its extremely interesting to see what works and what doesn't. To give an example, last year I tried 10-15 new varieties and/or species in local gardens. Out of all those, a mere three actually grew and produced well: Soybeans, butternut squash, and cilantro. This season we are trying another dozen or so food crops for their resistance to drought and/or their high nutrition value. A few examples of this year's trials: Quinoa, amaranth, marama beans, and forage peanuts (animal fodder) to name a few. I imagine that much like last year many of the crops will not adjust to the climate, but there is always the possibility that one or two of them could do well and perhaps over time become a useful source of nutrition.
Community Update
I've been enjoying scattered storms and milder temperatures since June, so now at midday as I write this its only 90 degrees. Standing on my porch and watching a storm come in over the horizon is a favorite activity of mine. 8 months of unrelenting sun makes dark gray clouds a welcome sight. The wind comes first to stir up the hot, dry air and almost immediately the temperature plunges. A few moments later the rain announces its arrival conspicuously, pinging loudly on my tin roof. The rhythm persists for a few minutes, and then as if someone flicked a switch, the deluge begins. The storms often come and go within an hour. While the temperatures remain pleasant the sun reappears immediately afterwards and one can almost feel it sucking the moisture back up.
Last week I was on my porch eagerly awaiting what I've just described. The wind started to stir as usual and the mercury began to drop. The approaching clouds looked extremely nasty. Typically nothing more than a dark gray band pushes through without much fuss. Only these clouds were black in color and were piled far up into the sky. The rain began and fell as it usually does: a downpour but by no means something to be overly concerned about. The wind was what concerned me most. I will often stay on my porch and enjoy the cool spray of the wind and rain, but on this day I was more worried about getting knocked over the head by a flying tree branch, goat, small child, etc.
Closing my doors and retreating into my house I could barely hear myself think. The rain on the roof can be deafening, but the gale winds added to it and created an almost unbearable cacaphony. Add to that the sound of breaking glass and twisting metal outside and I began to contemplate which part of my house was the best area to crouch down in.
Gladly the storm passed quickly as they often do. I stepped outside to assess the damage and was pleased to see that my house was still intact. The breaking glass? Two soda bottles on my porch that were pushed off by the wind. The twisted metal? Luckily not my actual house, but the shed in the back of my yard. Its tin roof had been peeled back as if it were a can of beans.
In the end power was cut to Bogo for nearly three weeks with over thirty downed power poles in the central town alone, and numerous flooded streets. Many trees had fallen and a few houses were no longer in one piece. Lots of cleaning up to do but miraculously there were no injuries. The death toll was limited to two unlucky cows.
The next day I was at the Bogo market and people were discussing the storm, saying nothing like that had been through the town for almost forty years. I stopped by the boutique where I bought the sodas with the intention of giving the owner money for the broken bottles. Explaining that they broke the day before I handed him 500 francs for the two bottles. He refused to take the money, saying “Non non non. C'est Dieu qui a fait ça,” meaning God was responsible for the broken bottles. Good to know that the neighborhood boutiques have return policies on merchandise broken by angry deities, yet the big man upstairs would be none too pleased to learn that I'm running up his tab in the Bogo market.
-The one bar in Bogo, Chez Akamba, has been struggling with a broken refrigerator for the past month. I just wrote that sentence explaining a major issue in my life and suddenly realized that said phrase contained two major issues. No cold beer is to be found in Bogo right now. That in itself is not acceptable but above I said “the one bar in Bogo.” That's a travesty and I'll congratulate myself for staying muted for so long. One bar in a city of tens of thousands???
-Bogo Cup 2010- That's right, the 2010 Coupe de Bogo began in July and was scheduled to continue into early September. Before continuing I'll say that Ramadan started this Wednesday and the Cup was not yet finished. Not eating or drinking all day in desert heat is not conducive to athletic endeavors. Furthermore, an unrelated tournament in Maroua was underway and many of the top players from our neck of the woods were on the road doing their best to do Bogo proud. As a result I believe the Cup has been put on hold if not canceled. The tourney in Bogo had reached the semifinal round and as expected the lads of Auxerre Marouaré, the 2009 defending champs, were still in the mix and waiting to square off against either the infamous Sararé FC, the hopeful Carlos squad or the fashionable newcomers of Boraἲ village. Personally I have no qualms about playing football during Ramadan. These young men, most of whom have worked manually for most of their lives and have had little other than football as a diversion are a handful to play against to say the least. Even with severely low blood sugar they'll probably still have a leg up on me, but at this point I'll take any advantage I can get!
Last week I was on my porch eagerly awaiting what I've just described. The wind started to stir as usual and the mercury began to drop. The approaching clouds looked extremely nasty. Typically nothing more than a dark gray band pushes through without much fuss. Only these clouds were black in color and were piled far up into the sky. The rain began and fell as it usually does: a downpour but by no means something to be overly concerned about. The wind was what concerned me most. I will often stay on my porch and enjoy the cool spray of the wind and rain, but on this day I was more worried about getting knocked over the head by a flying tree branch, goat, small child, etc.
Closing my doors and retreating into my house I could barely hear myself think. The rain on the roof can be deafening, but the gale winds added to it and created an almost unbearable cacaphony. Add to that the sound of breaking glass and twisting metal outside and I began to contemplate which part of my house was the best area to crouch down in.
Gladly the storm passed quickly as they often do. I stepped outside to assess the damage and was pleased to see that my house was still intact. The breaking glass? Two soda bottles on my porch that were pushed off by the wind. The twisted metal? Luckily not my actual house, but the shed in the back of my yard. Its tin roof had been peeled back as if it were a can of beans.
In the end power was cut to Bogo for nearly three weeks with over thirty downed power poles in the central town alone, and numerous flooded streets. Many trees had fallen and a few houses were no longer in one piece. Lots of cleaning up to do but miraculously there were no injuries. The death toll was limited to two unlucky cows.
The next day I was at the Bogo market and people were discussing the storm, saying nothing like that had been through the town for almost forty years. I stopped by the boutique where I bought the sodas with the intention of giving the owner money for the broken bottles. Explaining that they broke the day before I handed him 500 francs for the two bottles. He refused to take the money, saying “Non non non. C'est Dieu qui a fait ça,” meaning God was responsible for the broken bottles. Good to know that the neighborhood boutiques have return policies on merchandise broken by angry deities, yet the big man upstairs would be none too pleased to learn that I'm running up his tab in the Bogo market.
-The one bar in Bogo, Chez Akamba, has been struggling with a broken refrigerator for the past month. I just wrote that sentence explaining a major issue in my life and suddenly realized that said phrase contained two major issues. No cold beer is to be found in Bogo right now. That in itself is not acceptable but above I said “the one bar in Bogo.” That's a travesty and I'll congratulate myself for staying muted for so long. One bar in a city of tens of thousands???
-Bogo Cup 2010- That's right, the 2010 Coupe de Bogo began in July and was scheduled to continue into early September. Before continuing I'll say that Ramadan started this Wednesday and the Cup was not yet finished. Not eating or drinking all day in desert heat is not conducive to athletic endeavors. Furthermore, an unrelated tournament in Maroua was underway and many of the top players from our neck of the woods were on the road doing their best to do Bogo proud. As a result I believe the Cup has been put on hold if not canceled. The tourney in Bogo had reached the semifinal round and as expected the lads of Auxerre Marouaré, the 2009 defending champs, were still in the mix and waiting to square off against either the infamous Sararé FC, the hopeful Carlos squad or the fashionable newcomers of Boraἲ village. Personally I have no qualms about playing football during Ramadan. These young men, most of whom have worked manually for most of their lives and have had little other than football as a diversion are a handful to play against to say the least. Even with severely low blood sugar they'll probably still have a leg up on me, but at this point I'll take any advantage I can get!
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