I'll begin this week by mentioning some past and upcoming milestones. For one, just a few days ago(Oct 20) marked one month in Cameroon. So far it has been pretty smooth sailing. While many problems exist here I think most people have a view of Africa that is shaped by what the evening news shows us. If you want to find the negatives here they are certainly present, but the majority of my experiences thus far are highlighted by the laid back and welcoming nature of the country. With the exception of a few cultural missteps I think I've adjusted well. An example of such a misstep would be the use of the words mosque and mosquito, words which are very similar in french as well. Note to self: When in a muslim village, accidentally saying you hate mosques requires a quick recovery.
Another important milestone is that of post announcement (Oct 30) which is when I'll find out where exactly my next two years will be spent. Waiting to hear hasd been the most difficult part of training, and I will be incredibly happy once I know what I have to look forward to. What I do know is that all 16 or 17 agro volunteers will be posted in 2 of Cameroon's 10 provinces, Nord (where we are now) or Nord-Extreme. Not sure I have a preference between the two. Most of the posts have electricity and cell phone reception. None have running water. I havent seen a legitimate flush toilet in one month and it hasnt been too much of a problem, so running water isn't exactly a concern of mine. Besides, I don't think it would be very peace corps-esque, and I might feel as though I were cheating if I had it. As surprising as this sounds a common complaint from PCVs is that they think they have it too nice here. I'm living comfortably, but that is one complaint that won't be going on my evaluation forms. One thing I did request was being posted nearby a small enterprise development (SED) volunteer, as mixing agroforestry with a microcredit program is something I hope to pursue.
Healthwise, dare I say I'm doing fine? I'd hate to jinx myself after a month of no problems. Lets just say everything is still attached and nothing has laid eggs in my stomach to my knowledge. The peace corps has given us enough info/training/shots/medicine to sustain a small rebel force. Although the info sessions can be disconcerting. To summarize, pretty much everything is a)infected with a parasite b)trying to infect me with a parasite c)poisonous d)covered in fecal matter, or e)all of the above. Common sense is usually sufficient to avoid trouble. Street food covered in flies- bad. Peelable fruit and cameroonian guinness- goooood.
As for wildlife I fear I may disappoint many who expected me to be riding zebras and elephants across the savanna by now. I have become good friends with the many insect eating frogs and lizards who often stop by my room in the evening to feast. Chameleon sightings are common although they usually waste no time in getting away from all the children trying to play with them. Livestock is most common and our friendly neighborhood rooster likes to make his presence well known at about 5AM each morning. Goats are everywhere and they eat everything. My family had 2 chickens pecking around the compound last week. I only saw one today so I believe I have the other to thank for that delicious sauce and meat over rice the other evening.
As for the agroforestry training, the staff has really started to pile on the field trips, exams and presentations. I'm starting to feel as though I'm back at college, only difference being I go to class here :) I think the following gives an idea of what I'm up to: After numerous trips "en brusse" (the bush) I've started my own tiny nursery of gum arabic trees, which can be a very lucrative asset here. By small I mean 100 individually planted polypots. Most nurseries in the area operate with tens of thousands of trees at one time. Nothing green has come out ofpolypots yet, and while I only planted 2 days ago I'm wondering whether that damn chicken has been poking around. I have no problem eating chicken again tonight so I hope for his sake that is not the case. With all the trainees it looks as though we'll have between 1000-1600 gum arabic seedlings to give to the community that has hosted us during training.
On Monday I'll be giving myfirst agricultural animation to the training staff on the topic of environmental education. Basically just a 15 minute presentation in which we assume we are speaking with a group of interestedcameroonians. We are allowed to give this one in english but I think I may give it a go in french to see how I've progressed. Unfortunately I didnt realize at the time of topic selection that it is a pretty difficult topic in a cameroonian context. There isn't much about environmental education that directly impacts people's wallets in the short term, and when most people here struggle to sustain themselves month to month anything without immediate benefit is a tough sell. However, find the right audience and explaining improved living standards and health achieved through a clean environment isnt so useless. When it comes to pollution, the average cameroonian produces about 1 percent of what the average american creates, but when every bit of that ends up in the streets, gutters and water supply it creates some pretty nasty, unhealthy areas. Nursery establishment, orchard establishment, sustainable farming systems, and basic business principles and income generation are some of the other items on the training agenda. As I said before environmental education and also ecotourism are two topics that interest me a great deal and could be put to great use in the Sahel. Unfortunately the lack of infrastructure and transportation in the north prevents ecotourism from taking off. Also, at the risk of sounding a bit political, the north of Cameroon has seen almost no development over the last 30 years due to the president being a southerner. Not my place to commentate on that, but the reality is that the major infrastructure here is either in disrepair or nonexistent. One telling example is that after every rainy season the many dirt roads linking villages to the main autoroutes are filled, flattened just repaired in general. The only strange part to this story is that it is done almost entirely by a french cotton company operating in the area that relies on the backroads to access the cotton harvests. That company rightfully has its own business concerns in mind, so anything beyond that in Northern Cameroon will remain underdevelopped for the foreseeable future without the help of NGOs and development organisations.
I'll leave it at that for this week. But first some interesting observations from the past month before parting:
- Cameroon does not have AAA, but when the PC Land Cruiser got stuck in about 3 feet of mud there were 15-20 cameroonians on hand in about 20 minutes to physically lift the massive vehicle up and out of the bog. And they accepted our invitation to lunch at the nearby village as payment.
-Refridgeration is the most amazing thing ever created. I just want you all to know that. Next time you open your fridge just stick your head in there for a second and feel that glorious burst of cool air and say "Ahh!" Do it for me.
-Hissing at people in Cameroon is a perfectly acceptable and preferred method of getting someones attention. When I come back to the US and hiss at you out of habit please dont slap me. That would be culturally insensitive of you.
-A bush taxi with approximately 13 seats can fit 20 people, a few small children, 2-3 goats and about 3 tons of maize sacks on the roof. Yet the driver is convinced he is taking part in the Indy 500.
-Cameroonians with TV watch the american show Prisonbreak religiously. I never watched it in the states so I couldnt say whether or not the episodes are current, but globalisation seems to be alive and well.
-To elaborate on that, every conversation I've had with cameroonians indicates the same thing. For anyone who believes that America has lost popularity in the world, dont tell that to anyone here. In the tiny muslim village of Nassarao kids love our music and films, adults want to talk about the election and everyone in general sees the US as a country where you can breathe the air and become rich. That last part obviously isnt true and Ive tried to convey a more realistic vision of our country. While many of these people will never have an opportunity to see the US for themselves, the idea of an american dream seems to be something that translates to many cultures. They know all the great things about our country and they know our faults just as well (French TV is widely available here). But most importantly, America is the place where you can marry Shakira (very popular here), make 1 million cfa (about 2500 dollars), and clothes wash themselves in machines.
10.25.2008
10.12.2008
10/5/2008
As you may have guessed, internet access in Northern Cameron is a bit of a challenge. Figuring out this damn french keyboard is a fun experience as well. After a lengthy trip from Douala to Yaoundé, and then further into the interior of Cameroon, we now find ourselves living in the small village of Nassarao. It is a tiny community of vendors, farmers and herders just outside the northern provincial capital of Garoua, which is where I now write this blog entry. Our training building is right in the center of town along with the local mosque and primairy school. Ive been placed with a host family for the next few months, and the fourteen year old son and eighteen year old daughter are the only french speakers in the house. Fufulde is the first language and I am gradually picking up some simple phrases. Although I believe the mother thinks Im slow in the head because mi somi (Im sleepy), mi haari (Im full) mi dilli (Im leaving) and useko (thank you) is about the extent of my fufulde knowledge right now. Nevertheless, it is a very welcoming area and aside from a few (maybe alot) of confused looks from locals, everyone is usually very friendly and inquisitive, i.e. where are you from? do you know_____ (insert famous american name)? will you take this baby back to the states with you? etc.
Our pre service training curently consists of about 4 hours of language training in the morning and another 3 to 4 hours of technical or cultural traing in the afternoon. The immersion phase of PST begins on Monday and that means instructors and staff no longer speak in english for our convenience. Ive ben using my english as a crutch in ,any sessions thus far, so being forced to use french 24/7 should be very beneficial yet frustrating to begin with. I tested into the intermediate-mid level of french when ariving, so once I reach intermediate high I will be able to begin formal lessons in fufulde, which is the predominant language in northern Cameroon. Regardless of the frustrations, northern Cameron is very laidback place when compared to my experiences in Douala and Yaoundé, and it is day and night compared to our hurriedness in the United States. I think it is just to damn hot here to be in a hurry. The most populqr daytime activity sems to be sleeping under a large baobab or cassia tree. With that being the case I should have no problem immersing myself in the culture. I wonder what the fufulde word for hamock is. I can also apreciate the slower pace here since the slightest bit of physical exertion between the hours of 10-4 brings on a drenching sweat, hence my intake of about 3-4 litres of water per day. The rainy season is ending this month so the humidity will begin to drift away. However, Im told that temperatures during the dry season can climb to 130 in the sun. But hey, atleast its a dry heat! Now that weve established a fairly regular schedule here in Nassarao, I hope to be updating the blog on atleast a bi wekly basis. So thanks again for reading and I hope to have some pictures available soon.
10/12/2008:
So I had intended to add the previous passage to the blog last Sunday when I was in Garoua for the day. I bought an hour of internet access at the cyber café for 300cfa (75 cents), but with the speed of the internet connection I had just about enough time to clear out my email inbox and then get stuck between loading internet pages for about 30 minutes. C'est Afrique. So last Wednesday I decided to try it again. And I bet youll never guess, thats right, the internet went down about 5 minutes into my session. SSo here I am, back again to play the odds at a Cameroonian cyber café. The trip from Nassarao is easy enough. From the training center I walk about 5 minutes to the main highway, which is more like a 1.5 lane tarmac shared by motos, taxis, bush taxis, 18 wheelers, and of course plenty of goats. From there I wait under a tree for a passing moto taxi (think dirt bike), negotiate a price (200cfa), put on my peace corps issued moto helmet, and hold on for dear life as the driver weaves his way around bicycles, cars, trucks, goats, etc and into the middle of Garoua. Upon hopping off the back of the moto in centre-ville Im quickly approached by numerous friendly Cameroonians offering things such as another moto ride, what apears to be 10 year old bottles of aspirin and tylenol, or even a cut of raw and sun baked meat. Mm, delicious. After a short walk to a new cyber café, which coincidentally is called Pentagon, I manage to procure another hour of internet for approx 75 cents. Much to the relief of my stomach I turned down the street food. Besides, Ive been told that there is a restaurant that serves burgers and sandwiches. Not hat the fod Ive received thus far isnt apetizing, and its hard to complain when is prepared for me by my homestay family. Nevertheless, couscous and fish sauce can get monotonous, and Im prety sure a burger or sandwich w/ a cold beverage (non alcoholic of course) would be the most beautiful thing on earth right now. If I have any extra time before returning to Nassarao I am considering renting out the restaurant's refrigerator, if only to seet and feel cold for about 10 minutes. I could create an entirely new sector of busiess in the process. Renting out refrigerated spaces to unacclimated westerners. I smell a small enterprise development project in the making. Before parting I would like to quickly touch on the situation w/ me adding pictures to the blog. Most of the coputers here lok like the belong in the old Star Trek movies so unfortunately I dont know when I will have an oportunity to get pictures on the internet. Within the month of October is my target. In the meantime I'll have you know that it is beautiful here and that is in no small part to the people that have been so welcoming. I also look forward to adding pics of me in my boubou (Cameroonian man dress), which is lovely. To summarize the rest of the photo album to date, I am sweating profusely in every picture, and if you were to create a flipbook you could likely see me gradually getting thinner. Thats all I've got for the moment, à bientot.
As you may have guessed, internet access in Northern Cameron is a bit of a challenge. Figuring out this damn french keyboard is a fun experience as well. After a lengthy trip from Douala to Yaoundé, and then further into the interior of Cameroon, we now find ourselves living in the small village of Nassarao. It is a tiny community of vendors, farmers and herders just outside the northern provincial capital of Garoua, which is where I now write this blog entry. Our training building is right in the center of town along with the local mosque and primairy school. Ive been placed with a host family for the next few months, and the fourteen year old son and eighteen year old daughter are the only french speakers in the house. Fufulde is the first language and I am gradually picking up some simple phrases. Although I believe the mother thinks Im slow in the head because mi somi (Im sleepy), mi haari (Im full) mi dilli (Im leaving) and useko (thank you) is about the extent of my fufulde knowledge right now. Nevertheless, it is a very welcoming area and aside from a few (maybe alot) of confused looks from locals, everyone is usually very friendly and inquisitive, i.e. where are you from? do you know_____ (insert famous american name)? will you take this baby back to the states with you? etc.
Our pre service training curently consists of about 4 hours of language training in the morning and another 3 to 4 hours of technical or cultural traing in the afternoon. The immersion phase of PST begins on Monday and that means instructors and staff no longer speak in english for our convenience. Ive ben using my english as a crutch in ,any sessions thus far, so being forced to use french 24/7 should be very beneficial yet frustrating to begin with. I tested into the intermediate-mid level of french when ariving, so once I reach intermediate high I will be able to begin formal lessons in fufulde, which is the predominant language in northern Cameroon. Regardless of the frustrations, northern Cameron is very laidback place when compared to my experiences in Douala and Yaoundé, and it is day and night compared to our hurriedness in the United States. I think it is just to damn hot here to be in a hurry. The most populqr daytime activity sems to be sleeping under a large baobab or cassia tree. With that being the case I should have no problem immersing myself in the culture. I wonder what the fufulde word for hamock is. I can also apreciate the slower pace here since the slightest bit of physical exertion between the hours of 10-4 brings on a drenching sweat, hence my intake of about 3-4 litres of water per day. The rainy season is ending this month so the humidity will begin to drift away. However, Im told that temperatures during the dry season can climb to 130 in the sun. But hey, atleast its a dry heat! Now that weve established a fairly regular schedule here in Nassarao, I hope to be updating the blog on atleast a bi wekly basis. So thanks again for reading and I hope to have some pictures available soon.
10/12/2008:
So I had intended to add the previous passage to the blog last Sunday when I was in Garoua for the day. I bought an hour of internet access at the cyber café for 300cfa (75 cents), but with the speed of the internet connection I had just about enough time to clear out my email inbox and then get stuck between loading internet pages for about 30 minutes. C'est Afrique. So last Wednesday I decided to try it again. And I bet youll never guess, thats right, the internet went down about 5 minutes into my session. SSo here I am, back again to play the odds at a Cameroonian cyber café. The trip from Nassarao is easy enough. From the training center I walk about 5 minutes to the main highway, which is more like a 1.5 lane tarmac shared by motos, taxis, bush taxis, 18 wheelers, and of course plenty of goats. From there I wait under a tree for a passing moto taxi (think dirt bike), negotiate a price (200cfa), put on my peace corps issued moto helmet, and hold on for dear life as the driver weaves his way around bicycles, cars, trucks, goats, etc and into the middle of Garoua. Upon hopping off the back of the moto in centre-ville Im quickly approached by numerous friendly Cameroonians offering things such as another moto ride, what apears to be 10 year old bottles of aspirin and tylenol, or even a cut of raw and sun baked meat. Mm, delicious. After a short walk to a new cyber café, which coincidentally is called Pentagon, I manage to procure another hour of internet for approx 75 cents. Much to the relief of my stomach I turned down the street food. Besides, Ive been told that there is a restaurant that serves burgers and sandwiches. Not hat the fod Ive received thus far isnt apetizing, and its hard to complain when is prepared for me by my homestay family. Nevertheless, couscous and fish sauce can get monotonous, and Im prety sure a burger or sandwich w/ a cold beverage (non alcoholic of course) would be the most beautiful thing on earth right now. If I have any extra time before returning to Nassarao I am considering renting out the restaurant's refrigerator, if only to seet and feel cold for about 10 minutes. I could create an entirely new sector of busiess in the process. Renting out refrigerated spaces to unacclimated westerners. I smell a small enterprise development project in the making. Before parting I would like to quickly touch on the situation w/ me adding pictures to the blog. Most of the coputers here lok like the belong in the old Star Trek movies so unfortunately I dont know when I will have an oportunity to get pictures on the internet. Within the month of October is my target. In the meantime I'll have you know that it is beautiful here and that is in no small part to the people that have been so welcoming. I also look forward to adding pics of me in my boubou (Cameroonian man dress), which is lovely. To summarize the rest of the photo album to date, I am sweating profusely in every picture, and if you were to create a flipbook you could likely see me gradually getting thinner. Thats all I've got for the moment, à bientot.
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