It's hard to believe but my time here in Cameroon is almost done. 79 days from now (not that I'm keeping track) I will depart this fine land, taking a quick detour through Europe with a few friends before arriving back in the U.S. shortly before Christmas.
It's a strange time in my Peace Corps service. My work has all but finished and there is really no time to begin new projects. People in Bogo are well aware of my imminent departure which throws up a whole host of difficulties (explained below). The group of volunteers that will replace us in December are scheduled to arrive in country in the next few days for training and come November that extremely lucky volunteer that has been chosen to replace me will visit Bogo for a week to get acquainted with what will become his or her new home. Furthermore I've recently tried to use the remainder of my vacation time to see as much of this lovely country as possible.
Kribi Beach Vacation, August 18-22
Kribi is a small beach town on the coast of Cameroon situated about 3 hours south of the capital, Yaounde. A group of us spent some time there this past month and it was a greatly needed respite from village life (although it was most likely where I contracted my recent case of malaria). For four days we lounged around at a small hotel right on the beach. Swimming around in the rough surf and having bonfires on the beach occupied most of our time. The only reason to leave the peaceful confines of our hotel was to make a daily trek into town where at the central harbor fishermen sold whatever catch they had brought in that morning. And right next to the fish market were numerous 'mamas' who, for a small fee, would cook up whatever we had purchased in their grills (old truck wheels) with a delicious ginger/garlic/hot sauce blend. I couldn't remember the last time I had eaten seafood yet in the span of just 3 days I gorged myself on heaps of shrimp, whitefish, lobster, stingray and shark. Making up for lost time never tasted so good.
COS Conference, August 23-27
The Peace Corps recently hosted our group of volunteers at the Mount Febe Hotel in Yaounde for our Close of Service(COS) conference. The purpose of the COS conference is to begin the arduous task of completing all the paperwork that is required from a volunteer before he/she can leave the country. It is no small task and will require a large portion of my free time over the next few months. Aside from the endless administrative checklist COS conference is also an opportunity for volunteers to reflect upon the past two years, make sense of the past two years (not as easy as it sounds), begin thinking about the transition back to the United States or wherever else one might go, and provide feedback to Peace Corps staff on how the program could be improved upon.
Sure these are all extremely important things to do prior to departure. But what is the most important aspect of the COS conference, you ask? That would be the fact that for one week Peace Corps puts us up in one of the nicest hotels in Yaounde for a week where we eat western food buffet style three meals a day. Keep in mind that we are talking about volunteers, most of whom have been out in the bush eating sandy cous cous and leaf sauce for the past two years. To be quite honest I think the Mount Febe staff are shocked by how dozens of Americans who have been out in the bush for extended periods react to such nice accomodations. Then again they have dealt with the Peace Corps COS conference twice a year for many years (I've been told that we are no longer welcome at the Yaounde Hilton). To give another example I can count on one hand the number of warm showers I've had since September 2008. That was of course before I spent a week at the Mount Febe, where I believe I was averaging 2-3 warm showers a day in addition a nightly jump in the frigid pool. Preparation for the polar bear swims I plan to take in Mom and Dad's pool in Charlotte this December. Don't drain it for the winter!
A trip to the border
Another, less enjoyable excursion was my recent one night visit to the border with Nigeria in the North of the country. And no I did not cross over. I have no desire to be stuck in Nigeria. Seeing the border crossing however was very humorous. I set up in an auberge in the Cameroonian town of Amchide (Am-chee-day), which shares the border with the Nigerian town of Banki (Bunk-ee). The Amchide nightclub was surprisingly nice. I was half expecting some bizarre African version of that gunrunner bar on Tatooine in Star Wars. And I'm sure Michael Jackson would have been proud to know that on this particular night the DJ pumped 'Billie Jean' on the Cameroon/Nigeria border no less than six times.
Luckily the trip was uneventful. But long story short, barring an unforeseen need for smuggled weapons or petrol I won't be returning to Amchide anytime soon. I stepped in human feces a total of three times in 18 hours, the city streets are littered in filth, Nigerian beer isn't all that tasty, and people just generally seem far more shady and likely to relieve me of my possessions.
Parting is such sweet sorrow
December 3 is officially my last day in Cameroon. I'll most likely be leaving Bogo a week or two before in late November. Some volunteers have had big parties and lots of drawn out goodbyes before leaving. Others have not said a thing of their departure and then one day just vacate the premises to avoid all the attention. I can understand both approaches but I will be aiming for something in the middle of the two. When there is too much fanfare some people often try to take advantage of the situation and get anything they can out of the volunteer (Money or basically anything in the house that isn't nailed down). On the flip side when someone just leaves without saying a word people will most likely be very offended, and rightly so in my mind.
Click here to read an interesting way to go about solving this problem. Notice the lovely hat that PCV Brian Hillery is wearing in the photos as he sells the wares of departed volunteers.
So when I do leave, my friends and colleagues will most certainly know about it. I'll miss many people here very much. For two years they have treated me with unceasing hospitality. I honestly don't know that I want to spend anymore time as a volunteer in Bogo, but that doesn't go to say that it hasn't been a fantastic town to call home. When they ask me "so what are you doing with your TV/fridge/stove/bed/rugs/books/buckets/chairs/tables?," unfortunately for them I will tell them that its up to the person that replaces me. I would feel like a jerk if I let my house get ransacked and the new volunteer shows up to an empty house. And if he or she wants to have a yard sale upon arriving in Bogo (preferably while wearing funny hats) more power to 'em.
9.15.2010
Cameroon in the News: September 2010
Hundreds die of cholera in Nigeria, Cameroon (CNN)
Cholera Concerns Increase as Children Head Back to School in Cameroon (Voice of America)
New Cameroon Airlines To Start Commercial Flights Next March (Nasdaq.com)
Belgian ship attacked in Cameroon (BBC)
Cameroon begins search for seized vessels (Independent Online)
Cameroon hopes Brazil project will boost cocoa output (Reuters)
Cameroon president sacks police chief, security head (Associated Press)
Cholera Concerns Increase as Children Head Back to School in Cameroon (Voice of America)
New Cameroon Airlines To Start Commercial Flights Next March (Nasdaq.com)
Belgian ship attacked in Cameroon (BBC)
Cameroon begins search for seized vessels (Independent Online)
Cameroon hopes Brazil project will boost cocoa output (Reuters)
Cameroon president sacks police chief, security head (Associated Press)
8.18.2010
Cameroon in the News: August 2010
Cameroon Govt., Expatriates Meet To Improve Business Climate (Wall Street Journal)
Cameroon appoint ex-Spain coach Clemente (ESPN)
Cholera outbreak kills 200 in Cameroon (CNN International)
China Cancels XAF2.1 Billion Of Cameroon's Debt (Wall Street Journal)
Cameroon's Government Welcomes Human Rights Research Mission (Voice of America)
Cameroon journalist fights deportation (The Guardian)
Cameroon appoint ex-Spain coach Clemente (ESPN)
Cholera outbreak kills 200 in Cameroon (CNN International)
China Cancels XAF2.1 Billion Of Cameroon's Debt (Wall Street Journal)
Cameroon's Government Welcomes Human Rights Research Mission (Voice of America)
Cameroon journalist fights deportation (The Guardian)
8.17.2010
Work Update
I recently received a comment asking what type of work I'm doing here in Northern Cameroon. I often ask myself that same exact question. After an hour or so of intermittent headaches and daydreaming about coldcut sandwiches and washing machines (two separate day dreams, although eating a turkey sandwich while my clothes are being put through the cycles sounds pretty awesome), I come to some conclusion on what I've done and what I hope continues here. To give you an idea my work schedule involves the following:
Mango Orchards:
-# of Orchards I work with: 10-15
-What do we do? In collaboration with L'Institut de Recherchement Agricole pour le Developpement (IRAD), a Cameroonian governement agency, we have treated numerous orchards in the Bogo area against destructive insect and fungus infestations with surprising success. Orchards that had not given fruit in almost two to three years began producing again; the reason being that the pesticides we used (dangerous but biodegradable) allowed the trees to produce flowers in December and January unfettered. In the past the pests would typically consume any flowers the trees had sprouted, hence making it impossible for any fruit production. Almost all of the local orchards were originally in complete disrepair and this will need a few more seasons of solid improvement to be seen as a success. Despite the challenges they face the local orchard owners have eagerly adopted the treatment process to the point that an outside development worker is no longer needed to oversee it.
-Here are a few other techniques that I've discussed with the owners that can help them keep their orchards healthy and productive:
Natural fertilizers- Bogo is a cattle town. The market on Thursday is one of the largest in the region for herders, not to mention that many families have their own cows. When one is butchered the horns are just about the only part of the animal that isn't used by anyone, save for a few enterprising artisans. Cow horns are full of nutrients and the sandy soil in Bogo is not. Placing these excess horns around the trunks of mango trees during the rainy season can give those trees many of the nutrients they need to stave off infection and hopefully produce better. It is not only cheap but also extremely effective. A Peace Corps volunteer stuck in a village with next to no resources, such as myself, looks to these types of simple things to make some type of difference.
Overgrafting- This would be filed under the category of things I really want to do but the information to do it is simply not available as far as I know. Many of these orchards are 30-40 years old. As a result, most of the mango trees are far past their prime years of fruit production. Most owners are hesitant to cut down a 50 foot mango tree, plant a seedling in its place and then wait another 3-5 years for it to produce. I don't blame them. This ain't an easy place to grow a tree. Hungry livestock, brutal dry spells and branch breaking winds can all cause a lot of problems for a seedling trying to take a permanent hold. Instead of cutting down these behemoths and starting from square one I've suggested another idea that was suggested to me by an IRAD director who is a specialist with fruit trees and, unluckily, has since been transferred to another post. Actually one would still cut the older trees down but only to just above the trunk. If the tree was still alive at the time it was cut down it should begin sprouting new branches. Selecting three branches that have sprouted on the trunk, one would then graft a small branch of another healthy and productive tree to them. If the graft takes, in about two seasons that old tree will once again be producing fruit at a much higher rate. Its a technique that is used frequently in commercial orchards but has yet to show up in this neck of the woods. Unfortunately it may be too late for me to undertake such a project but with my experience over the past few years and the contacts that I've collected my replacement could potentially do some really cool stuff.
Diversification- During mango season I can go to the Bogo market and buy a pile of three or four large and deliciously sweet mangoes for about 200-250 francs (30-50 cents). Many of the orchards here sell their fruit in Maroua and even as far away as Chad, but the prices do not get much better. I've told them how much one mango would sell for in an American supermarket and their eyes nearly fell out of their head. At this point we are light years away from providing you and yours with delicious Northern Cameroonian mangoes, so I've suggested that we look into replacing non-productive mango trees with other species that, while not producing as impressively as a healthy adult “manguier,” command a much better price in the local markets and are not nearly as time consuming to care for. Papaya, citrus, anacardium (cashew), and guava trees all fit the bill for this region and climate.
Organization- When I began visiting orchards back in 2009 it was like listening to a broken record. “My wells have collapsed.” “The trees are sick.” “The trees no longer produce.” “The animals keep eating my new trees.” “My orchard guardian is a useless drunk and sleeps through bandits stealing all the fruit during the night.” The last statement was only voiced by one orchard owner but too good to omit. As an aside, I wonder if its worse to be the guy who is too drunk off millet beer to protect the orchard or the guy whose trade in life is 'fruit bandit.' Back to the point, it became obvious that power in numbers could be extremely beneficial for these folks. Discussing problems they all have, finding possible solutions, sharing success/failure stories, pooling resources for larger projects, etc. Almost like a support group for Bogo orchard owners. If the government paperwork allows for it I want to call it Orchards Anonymous. Your 12 step program towards having kick ass fruit.
Tree Nurseries (Peppinieres)
-# of Nurseries I work with: 5
-What do we do? Every year, I work with local tree nurseries to germinate, grow and transplant as many trees as possible in the Bogo area. Many of them are fruit trees but there are also numerous forestry species. Not only do they improve soil fertility but they also provide fodder for animals, firewood for families, protection of fields from wind, products for local medicine men, and lumber for carpenters.
Reforestation- I don't have hard facts on how the environment in this area of the world has been and is changing. I don't know the annual rainfall or its fluctuations. I've only been here for two years and have no idea what the fertility of the soil was like decades ago. What I do know is that over hot tea, cous-cous and sauce, old men have told me about how they remember when there used to be forests in the Extreme North of Cameroon. While Bogo is still on the periphery of the fight against deforestation in Africa, the brutal truth is that the Sahara desert is upon us and encroaching. One thing I do know is that when I'm working in the fields and it is three thousand degrees outside, the shade of a nice tree makes it so that it is only two thousand nine hundred and eighty degrees. Planting a trees is good..I think that's something we can all agree on so let's leave it at that
Intercropping- This technique involves planting trees in a field where crops are also being grown. Many trees that grow well in the dry sandy conditions here also give back a great deal of nutrients to the soil, whether be it by the leaves that fall onto the ground or the nutrients that their root systems provide. By planting certain trees in one's field, over time a noticeable improvement in soil fertility will be evident.
Live Fencing- Many of the species that grow well here in the Sahel are trees that have very small leaves and are extremely thorny. These trees can be extremely useful when trying to protect a field of crops from animals. Imagine you have a field full of corn, millet, manioc, peanuts, beans, whatever. You'd like to protect this field from outside invaders but metal fencing is simply too expensive for most small scale African farmers. Instead, on the border around a field one can plant thorny trees 50-60cm apart. When they reach a certain height cut them down part of the way and they will begin to grow outwards, joining together to form a thorny, living barrier that can protect whatever it is you have in your field.
Income Generating- While many people that have begun tree nurseries in Bogo are altruistic individuals in many ways, the number one reason they do it is to make extra money. Your average forestry tree in Bogo will sell for 100 francs each (fruit trees, depending on the species, sell anywhere from 300-1500 francs). 100 francs is only about 25 cents, but when you are selling thousands of trees, 25 cents can add up. Currently I work with a couple nurseries that are already well established. One of them produces as many as 20,000 fruit and forestry trees a year. With these nurseries I mainly focus on experimenting with new species that could be beneficial. They have the wiggle room to mess around with new seeds that could potentially be useful in the future. As for the nurseries that I myself have established we work on a much smaller scale and mainly with trees that are tried and true in this environment. To give an example, this year I provided the inputs for two nurseries of 1,000 trees each . A plastic watering can is 4,000 francs. Plastic pots for 1,000 trees is roughly 10,000 francs. Seeds are free if you go out in the bush and find them, but I also put down about 3,000 francs for seeds that I knew were good quality. All said and done I spent about 17,000 francs ($28) to start a 1,000 tree nursery. The main expense are the plastic pots and having enough seeds to see that they are all filled by the end of the season when its time to sell. Currently the person managing the tree nursery stands to make about 75000-100000 francs ($150-200) when we sell the trees to clients that want them for their homes or fields. The gentleman who began the nursery had no way to spare the initial 17,000 francs to start it. However after this planting season he will take the money that he has made, pay me back, set aside a small amount for his family, and then place about 35,000 francs in a village savings account. Next year when it is time to begin the tree nurseries again, considering he still has his trusty watering can and knows where to get most of his seeds in the bush he'll have the money in his savings account to create at the least a 2,000-3,000 tree nursery. Keep in mind that this is not his principal means of income. He'll harvest his crops, keep some to sell when the price is right, save the rest to feed his family for (ideally) the year, but then once again be close to broke this time next year. We've gone over the numbers for the next few years, and if he sticks to it there is no reason why he cannot be doing close to 20,000 trees in five years. Tree nurseries can be lucrative but by no means a full time job. Yet if managed well they can be incredibly beneficial in supplementing the meager income that most families subsist on here year in and year out.
Experimental Gardens/Crop Introduction
In addition to the activities explained above, I've also planted numerous crops/veggies/herbs with which the locals are often unfamiliar. Much of this stems from my own curiosity but is also intended to find food crops that grow well in the dry climate and perhaps add to the diversity and nutrition the local diet. It is rarely successful, but for me its extremely interesting to see what works and what doesn't. To give an example, last year I tried 10-15 new varieties and/or species in local gardens. Out of all those, a mere three actually grew and produced well: Soybeans, butternut squash, and cilantro. This season we are trying another dozen or so food crops for their resistance to drought and/or their high nutrition value. A few examples of this year's trials: Quinoa, amaranth, marama beans, and forage peanuts (animal fodder) to name a few. I imagine that much like last year many of the crops will not adjust to the climate, but there is always the possibility that one or two of them could do well and perhaps over time become a useful source of nutrition.
Mango Orchards:
-# of Orchards I work with: 10-15
-What do we do? In collaboration with L'Institut de Recherchement Agricole pour le Developpement (IRAD), a Cameroonian governement agency, we have treated numerous orchards in the Bogo area against destructive insect and fungus infestations with surprising success. Orchards that had not given fruit in almost two to three years began producing again; the reason being that the pesticides we used (dangerous but biodegradable) allowed the trees to produce flowers in December and January unfettered. In the past the pests would typically consume any flowers the trees had sprouted, hence making it impossible for any fruit production. Almost all of the local orchards were originally in complete disrepair and this will need a few more seasons of solid improvement to be seen as a success. Despite the challenges they face the local orchard owners have eagerly adopted the treatment process to the point that an outside development worker is no longer needed to oversee it.
-Here are a few other techniques that I've discussed with the owners that can help them keep their orchards healthy and productive:
Natural fertilizers- Bogo is a cattle town. The market on Thursday is one of the largest in the region for herders, not to mention that many families have their own cows. When one is butchered the horns are just about the only part of the animal that isn't used by anyone, save for a few enterprising artisans. Cow horns are full of nutrients and the sandy soil in Bogo is not. Placing these excess horns around the trunks of mango trees during the rainy season can give those trees many of the nutrients they need to stave off infection and hopefully produce better. It is not only cheap but also extremely effective. A Peace Corps volunteer stuck in a village with next to no resources, such as myself, looks to these types of simple things to make some type of difference.
Overgrafting- This would be filed under the category of things I really want to do but the information to do it is simply not available as far as I know. Many of these orchards are 30-40 years old. As a result, most of the mango trees are far past their prime years of fruit production. Most owners are hesitant to cut down a 50 foot mango tree, plant a seedling in its place and then wait another 3-5 years for it to produce. I don't blame them. This ain't an easy place to grow a tree. Hungry livestock, brutal dry spells and branch breaking winds can all cause a lot of problems for a seedling trying to take a permanent hold. Instead of cutting down these behemoths and starting from square one I've suggested another idea that was suggested to me by an IRAD director who is a specialist with fruit trees and, unluckily, has since been transferred to another post. Actually one would still cut the older trees down but only to just above the trunk. If the tree was still alive at the time it was cut down it should begin sprouting new branches. Selecting three branches that have sprouted on the trunk, one would then graft a small branch of another healthy and productive tree to them. If the graft takes, in about two seasons that old tree will once again be producing fruit at a much higher rate. Its a technique that is used frequently in commercial orchards but has yet to show up in this neck of the woods. Unfortunately it may be too late for me to undertake such a project but with my experience over the past few years and the contacts that I've collected my replacement could potentially do some really cool stuff.
Diversification- During mango season I can go to the Bogo market and buy a pile of three or four large and deliciously sweet mangoes for about 200-250 francs (30-50 cents). Many of the orchards here sell their fruit in Maroua and even as far away as Chad, but the prices do not get much better. I've told them how much one mango would sell for in an American supermarket and their eyes nearly fell out of their head. At this point we are light years away from providing you and yours with delicious Northern Cameroonian mangoes, so I've suggested that we look into replacing non-productive mango trees with other species that, while not producing as impressively as a healthy adult “manguier,” command a much better price in the local markets and are not nearly as time consuming to care for. Papaya, citrus, anacardium (cashew), and guava trees all fit the bill for this region and climate.
Organization- When I began visiting orchards back in 2009 it was like listening to a broken record. “My wells have collapsed.” “The trees are sick.” “The trees no longer produce.” “The animals keep eating my new trees.” “My orchard guardian is a useless drunk and sleeps through bandits stealing all the fruit during the night.” The last statement was only voiced by one orchard owner but too good to omit. As an aside, I wonder if its worse to be the guy who is too drunk off millet beer to protect the orchard or the guy whose trade in life is 'fruit bandit.' Back to the point, it became obvious that power in numbers could be extremely beneficial for these folks. Discussing problems they all have, finding possible solutions, sharing success/failure stories, pooling resources for larger projects, etc. Almost like a support group for Bogo orchard owners. If the government paperwork allows for it I want to call it Orchards Anonymous. Your 12 step program towards having kick ass fruit.
Tree Nurseries (Peppinieres)
-# of Nurseries I work with: 5
-What do we do? Every year, I work with local tree nurseries to germinate, grow and transplant as many trees as possible in the Bogo area. Many of them are fruit trees but there are also numerous forestry species. Not only do they improve soil fertility but they also provide fodder for animals, firewood for families, protection of fields from wind, products for local medicine men, and lumber for carpenters.
Reforestation- I don't have hard facts on how the environment in this area of the world has been and is changing. I don't know the annual rainfall or its fluctuations. I've only been here for two years and have no idea what the fertility of the soil was like decades ago. What I do know is that over hot tea, cous-cous and sauce, old men have told me about how they remember when there used to be forests in the Extreme North of Cameroon. While Bogo is still on the periphery of the fight against deforestation in Africa, the brutal truth is that the Sahara desert is upon us and encroaching. One thing I do know is that when I'm working in the fields and it is three thousand degrees outside, the shade of a nice tree makes it so that it is only two thousand nine hundred and eighty degrees. Planting a trees is good..I think that's something we can all agree on so let's leave it at that
Intercropping- This technique involves planting trees in a field where crops are also being grown. Many trees that grow well in the dry sandy conditions here also give back a great deal of nutrients to the soil, whether be it by the leaves that fall onto the ground or the nutrients that their root systems provide. By planting certain trees in one's field, over time a noticeable improvement in soil fertility will be evident.
Live Fencing- Many of the species that grow well here in the Sahel are trees that have very small leaves and are extremely thorny. These trees can be extremely useful when trying to protect a field of crops from animals. Imagine you have a field full of corn, millet, manioc, peanuts, beans, whatever. You'd like to protect this field from outside invaders but metal fencing is simply too expensive for most small scale African farmers. Instead, on the border around a field one can plant thorny trees 50-60cm apart. When they reach a certain height cut them down part of the way and they will begin to grow outwards, joining together to form a thorny, living barrier that can protect whatever it is you have in your field.
Income Generating- While many people that have begun tree nurseries in Bogo are altruistic individuals in many ways, the number one reason they do it is to make extra money. Your average forestry tree in Bogo will sell for 100 francs each (fruit trees, depending on the species, sell anywhere from 300-1500 francs). 100 francs is only about 25 cents, but when you are selling thousands of trees, 25 cents can add up. Currently I work with a couple nurseries that are already well established. One of them produces as many as 20,000 fruit and forestry trees a year. With these nurseries I mainly focus on experimenting with new species that could be beneficial. They have the wiggle room to mess around with new seeds that could potentially be useful in the future. As for the nurseries that I myself have established we work on a much smaller scale and mainly with trees that are tried and true in this environment. To give an example, this year I provided the inputs for two nurseries of 1,000 trees each . A plastic watering can is 4,000 francs. Plastic pots for 1,000 trees is roughly 10,000 francs. Seeds are free if you go out in the bush and find them, but I also put down about 3,000 francs for seeds that I knew were good quality. All said and done I spent about 17,000 francs ($28) to start a 1,000 tree nursery. The main expense are the plastic pots and having enough seeds to see that they are all filled by the end of the season when its time to sell. Currently the person managing the tree nursery stands to make about 75000-100000 francs ($150-200) when we sell the trees to clients that want them for their homes or fields. The gentleman who began the nursery had no way to spare the initial 17,000 francs to start it. However after this planting season he will take the money that he has made, pay me back, set aside a small amount for his family, and then place about 35,000 francs in a village savings account. Next year when it is time to begin the tree nurseries again, considering he still has his trusty watering can and knows where to get most of his seeds in the bush he'll have the money in his savings account to create at the least a 2,000-3,000 tree nursery. Keep in mind that this is not his principal means of income. He'll harvest his crops, keep some to sell when the price is right, save the rest to feed his family for (ideally) the year, but then once again be close to broke this time next year. We've gone over the numbers for the next few years, and if he sticks to it there is no reason why he cannot be doing close to 20,000 trees in five years. Tree nurseries can be lucrative but by no means a full time job. Yet if managed well they can be incredibly beneficial in supplementing the meager income that most families subsist on here year in and year out.
Experimental Gardens/Crop Introduction
In addition to the activities explained above, I've also planted numerous crops/veggies/herbs with which the locals are often unfamiliar. Much of this stems from my own curiosity but is also intended to find food crops that grow well in the dry climate and perhaps add to the diversity and nutrition the local diet. It is rarely successful, but for me its extremely interesting to see what works and what doesn't. To give an example, last year I tried 10-15 new varieties and/or species in local gardens. Out of all those, a mere three actually grew and produced well: Soybeans, butternut squash, and cilantro. This season we are trying another dozen or so food crops for their resistance to drought and/or their high nutrition value. A few examples of this year's trials: Quinoa, amaranth, marama beans, and forage peanuts (animal fodder) to name a few. I imagine that much like last year many of the crops will not adjust to the climate, but there is always the possibility that one or two of them could do well and perhaps over time become a useful source of nutrition.
Community Update
I've been enjoying scattered storms and milder temperatures since June, so now at midday as I write this its only 90 degrees. Standing on my porch and watching a storm come in over the horizon is a favorite activity of mine. 8 months of unrelenting sun makes dark gray clouds a welcome sight. The wind comes first to stir up the hot, dry air and almost immediately the temperature plunges. A few moments later the rain announces its arrival conspicuously, pinging loudly on my tin roof. The rhythm persists for a few minutes, and then as if someone flicked a switch, the deluge begins. The storms often come and go within an hour. While the temperatures remain pleasant the sun reappears immediately afterwards and one can almost feel it sucking the moisture back up.
Last week I was on my porch eagerly awaiting what I've just described. The wind started to stir as usual and the mercury began to drop. The approaching clouds looked extremely nasty. Typically nothing more than a dark gray band pushes through without much fuss. Only these clouds were black in color and were piled far up into the sky. The rain began and fell as it usually does: a downpour but by no means something to be overly concerned about. The wind was what concerned me most. I will often stay on my porch and enjoy the cool spray of the wind and rain, but on this day I was more worried about getting knocked over the head by a flying tree branch, goat, small child, etc.
Closing my doors and retreating into my house I could barely hear myself think. The rain on the roof can be deafening, but the gale winds added to it and created an almost unbearable cacaphony. Add to that the sound of breaking glass and twisting metal outside and I began to contemplate which part of my house was the best area to crouch down in.
Gladly the storm passed quickly as they often do. I stepped outside to assess the damage and was pleased to see that my house was still intact. The breaking glass? Two soda bottles on my porch that were pushed off by the wind. The twisted metal? Luckily not my actual house, but the shed in the back of my yard. Its tin roof had been peeled back as if it were a can of beans.
In the end power was cut to Bogo for nearly three weeks with over thirty downed power poles in the central town alone, and numerous flooded streets. Many trees had fallen and a few houses were no longer in one piece. Lots of cleaning up to do but miraculously there were no injuries. The death toll was limited to two unlucky cows.
The next day I was at the Bogo market and people were discussing the storm, saying nothing like that had been through the town for almost forty years. I stopped by the boutique where I bought the sodas with the intention of giving the owner money for the broken bottles. Explaining that they broke the day before I handed him 500 francs for the two bottles. He refused to take the money, saying “Non non non. C'est Dieu qui a fait ça,” meaning God was responsible for the broken bottles. Good to know that the neighborhood boutiques have return policies on merchandise broken by angry deities, yet the big man upstairs would be none too pleased to learn that I'm running up his tab in the Bogo market.
-The one bar in Bogo, Chez Akamba, has been struggling with a broken refrigerator for the past month. I just wrote that sentence explaining a major issue in my life and suddenly realized that said phrase contained two major issues. No cold beer is to be found in Bogo right now. That in itself is not acceptable but above I said “the one bar in Bogo.” That's a travesty and I'll congratulate myself for staying muted for so long. One bar in a city of tens of thousands???
-Bogo Cup 2010- That's right, the 2010 Coupe de Bogo began in July and was scheduled to continue into early September. Before continuing I'll say that Ramadan started this Wednesday and the Cup was not yet finished. Not eating or drinking all day in desert heat is not conducive to athletic endeavors. Furthermore, an unrelated tournament in Maroua was underway and many of the top players from our neck of the woods were on the road doing their best to do Bogo proud. As a result I believe the Cup has been put on hold if not canceled. The tourney in Bogo had reached the semifinal round and as expected the lads of Auxerre Marouaré, the 2009 defending champs, were still in the mix and waiting to square off against either the infamous Sararé FC, the hopeful Carlos squad or the fashionable newcomers of Boraἲ village. Personally I have no qualms about playing football during Ramadan. These young men, most of whom have worked manually for most of their lives and have had little other than football as a diversion are a handful to play against to say the least. Even with severely low blood sugar they'll probably still have a leg up on me, but at this point I'll take any advantage I can get!
Last week I was on my porch eagerly awaiting what I've just described. The wind started to stir as usual and the mercury began to drop. The approaching clouds looked extremely nasty. Typically nothing more than a dark gray band pushes through without much fuss. Only these clouds were black in color and were piled far up into the sky. The rain began and fell as it usually does: a downpour but by no means something to be overly concerned about. The wind was what concerned me most. I will often stay on my porch and enjoy the cool spray of the wind and rain, but on this day I was more worried about getting knocked over the head by a flying tree branch, goat, small child, etc.
Closing my doors and retreating into my house I could barely hear myself think. The rain on the roof can be deafening, but the gale winds added to it and created an almost unbearable cacaphony. Add to that the sound of breaking glass and twisting metal outside and I began to contemplate which part of my house was the best area to crouch down in.
Gladly the storm passed quickly as they often do. I stepped outside to assess the damage and was pleased to see that my house was still intact. The breaking glass? Two soda bottles on my porch that were pushed off by the wind. The twisted metal? Luckily not my actual house, but the shed in the back of my yard. Its tin roof had been peeled back as if it were a can of beans.
In the end power was cut to Bogo for nearly three weeks with over thirty downed power poles in the central town alone, and numerous flooded streets. Many trees had fallen and a few houses were no longer in one piece. Lots of cleaning up to do but miraculously there were no injuries. The death toll was limited to two unlucky cows.
The next day I was at the Bogo market and people were discussing the storm, saying nothing like that had been through the town for almost forty years. I stopped by the boutique where I bought the sodas with the intention of giving the owner money for the broken bottles. Explaining that they broke the day before I handed him 500 francs for the two bottles. He refused to take the money, saying “Non non non. C'est Dieu qui a fait ça,” meaning God was responsible for the broken bottles. Good to know that the neighborhood boutiques have return policies on merchandise broken by angry deities, yet the big man upstairs would be none too pleased to learn that I'm running up his tab in the Bogo market.
-The one bar in Bogo, Chez Akamba, has been struggling with a broken refrigerator for the past month. I just wrote that sentence explaining a major issue in my life and suddenly realized that said phrase contained two major issues. No cold beer is to be found in Bogo right now. That in itself is not acceptable but above I said “the one bar in Bogo.” That's a travesty and I'll congratulate myself for staying muted for so long. One bar in a city of tens of thousands???
-Bogo Cup 2010- That's right, the 2010 Coupe de Bogo began in July and was scheduled to continue into early September. Before continuing I'll say that Ramadan started this Wednesday and the Cup was not yet finished. Not eating or drinking all day in desert heat is not conducive to athletic endeavors. Furthermore, an unrelated tournament in Maroua was underway and many of the top players from our neck of the woods were on the road doing their best to do Bogo proud. As a result I believe the Cup has been put on hold if not canceled. The tourney in Bogo had reached the semifinal round and as expected the lads of Auxerre Marouaré, the 2009 defending champs, were still in the mix and waiting to square off against either the infamous Sararé FC, the hopeful Carlos squad or the fashionable newcomers of Boraἲ village. Personally I have no qualms about playing football during Ramadan. These young men, most of whom have worked manually for most of their lives and have had little other than football as a diversion are a handful to play against to say the least. Even with severely low blood sugar they'll probably still have a leg up on me, but at this point I'll take any advantage I can get!
7.22.2010
An Eating Guide to Maroua
Every month I spend a few days in our regional capital in the Extreme North, Maroua. A number of reasons bring me to town: Banking, visiting local NGO offices, socializing with fellow volunteers, going to the hospital to find out what’s residing in my stomach or growing on my feet, etc.
Not to bad mouth Bogo, an excellent town in its own right, but when I arrive in Maroua I often feel refreshed. Paved roads, internet, cold drinks and western toilets…I’m easy to please these days. Perhaps most important however is the cuisine available to me in Maroua. Eating in Bogo on a typical day usually consists of some combination of omelettes, spaghetti, onions, grilled beef, beef stew, spicy dried beef, and assorted other cow parts. Remember Bubba’s spiel about shrimp in Forest Gump? I could now do that exact same thing in relation to cows.
I’ll spare you that for the moment and get to the point. After weeks in Bogo, most of the time without any substantial vegetable of any kind, I’ll arrive in Maroua with a craving for anything that offers a little variety in taste and nutrition. While you all may think that I suffer immensely here I must reiterate that it is simply not the case. You’ll understand better after reading the dining review below of the thriving metropolis that is Maroua.
Belle Vie Restaurant
To start I’ll say that while it is a nice family run establishment, the atmosphere suffers when Junior, the chef’s toddler, is on the rampage in and around the restaurant. When he’s not busy soiling himself on the sidewalk outside or in the middle of the actual restaurant, Junior spends his time harassing the customers and his busy parents. With that said, I am all for putting the little terror on a leash. Yet while I’ve listed all the restaurants in no particular order I would say that this fine establishment, Junior aside, is my top pick any day of the week. Mixed salads, curries, a delicious chicken basquaise, and fish brochettes were some of the highlights. And with all dishes in the neighborhood of 1000-2000 francs ($2-4), someone on a volunteer’s salary can eat pretty well. These staples are still on the menu, but the chef has recently added ham, cheese, sausage and veggie sandwiches to the menu. I know that doesn’t sound all that amazing to you, but I assure you it is a major development in our standard of living here. I believe the normal Human Development Index (HDI) used by international organizations is a mixed measure of life expectancy, education and per capita GDP in any given country. Yet until “availability of ham & cheese sandwiches” is added as a fourth element of the HDI, I think we’ll just be lost in the woods as a society.
Cafeteriat Abdurahman
As far as the food, this place isn’t something to write home about. Greasy beefsteak, bread and French fries is about the extent of it. Despite the lack of decent grub Cafeteriat makes a fruit smoothie that is out of this world. Depending on the season one can get any mix of mango, guava, papaya, banana, pineapple and citrus. Some (including yours truly) have taken to calling them dysentery shakes, and if you saw the fly-ridden table where the fruit is cut and blended you would understand why. Yet I can’t think of one time when my intestinal woes could be traced back to Abdurahman. Then again, perhaps I’m just in denial that something so delicious could be harmful in any way.
Mammale Allaitante/Cheese GIC
This place gets bonus points for having “Lactating Mammal” as their name. The reason for this odd title begins with the formation of a community group that produces milk, yoghurt and cheeses at this location with the aid of an Italian organization. Their dairy products have always been immensely popular, especially among expats, and it was only a matter of time before a restaurant was opened on the same site. Today one can order tomato and mozzarella salad, personal pizzas, cheesesteak, homemade ice cream and tiramisu and many other daily specials. After a long difficult stint in Bogo, this restaurant is usually the perfect pick me up.
Niam Niam Glou Glou
This has never been much of a dinner joint, but when the oppressive heat sometimes lifts enough to allow for a more substantial lunch the burger and fries here hits the spot. For somewhere around three bucks one can get a “Hamburger McDonalds style” and fries. I would say this place actually beats McDonalds. That’s not to say that I wouldn’t kill someone for a double quarter-pounder with cheese right now (you think I’m kidding…throw in an apple pie and vanilla milkshake and I’ll kill two people), but McDonalds style here is a fresh roll, spiced and seasoned ground beef, cheese, ketchup, mayo and olives. It may not have that same glorious mix of artificial flavors, pure fat and sodium, but the freshness is hard to beat.
Restaurant Le Noumou
At first I really liked this place. The prices were a bit steep, but it puts out good food and is a nice change every once in a while. I believe they make more money off of catering and opening their massive courtyard to weddings and parties. This might explain why most times when I come in looking for a good sandwich or a plate of steak poivre blanc they look at me as if surprised that I’ve come to their restaurant to order food. I place my order with one of the half dozen employees with nothing to do in the empty restaurant and they take it back to the kitchen. About fifteen minutes later another employee will walk by briskly and exit restaurant, returning shortly with all ingredients for whatever I’ve just ordered. After that its only another 2 hours of sipping on overpriced drinks before the food is actually ready.
Relais de Porte Mayo
When I sit at a table on this restaurant/hotel’s patio with the tree cover and ambient lighting I forget where I am. It is fine dining at its best (in Cameroon), and the prices on the menu reflect that. A volunteer couldn’t exactly afford this place on a regular basis. Spending upwards of 10,000 francs on a meal is hard to justify when equal quantities of delicious (but less so) food can be found for fractions of the price. It’s nice every once in a while and once I start tearing apart the Roquefort salad, mango duck, spaghetti carbonara or banana split my brain shuts down and all cerebral functions not required for shoving food into my mouth are temporarily disabled. Then the plates are empty and I cry a tear of joy for those few minutes of gastronomical bliss.
Not to bad mouth Bogo, an excellent town in its own right, but when I arrive in Maroua I often feel refreshed. Paved roads, internet, cold drinks and western toilets…I’m easy to please these days. Perhaps most important however is the cuisine available to me in Maroua. Eating in Bogo on a typical day usually consists of some combination of omelettes, spaghetti, onions, grilled beef, beef stew, spicy dried beef, and assorted other cow parts. Remember Bubba’s spiel about shrimp in Forest Gump? I could now do that exact same thing in relation to cows.
I’ll spare you that for the moment and get to the point. After weeks in Bogo, most of the time without any substantial vegetable of any kind, I’ll arrive in Maroua with a craving for anything that offers a little variety in taste and nutrition. While you all may think that I suffer immensely here I must reiterate that it is simply not the case. You’ll understand better after reading the dining review below of the thriving metropolis that is Maroua.
Belle Vie Restaurant
To start I’ll say that while it is a nice family run establishment, the atmosphere suffers when Junior, the chef’s toddler, is on the rampage in and around the restaurant. When he’s not busy soiling himself on the sidewalk outside or in the middle of the actual restaurant, Junior spends his time harassing the customers and his busy parents. With that said, I am all for putting the little terror on a leash. Yet while I’ve listed all the restaurants in no particular order I would say that this fine establishment, Junior aside, is my top pick any day of the week. Mixed salads, curries, a delicious chicken basquaise, and fish brochettes were some of the highlights. And with all dishes in the neighborhood of 1000-2000 francs ($2-4), someone on a volunteer’s salary can eat pretty well. These staples are still on the menu, but the chef has recently added ham, cheese, sausage and veggie sandwiches to the menu. I know that doesn’t sound all that amazing to you, but I assure you it is a major development in our standard of living here. I believe the normal Human Development Index (HDI) used by international organizations is a mixed measure of life expectancy, education and per capita GDP in any given country. Yet until “availability of ham & cheese sandwiches” is added as a fourth element of the HDI, I think we’ll just be lost in the woods as a society.
Cafeteriat Abdurahman
As far as the food, this place isn’t something to write home about. Greasy beefsteak, bread and French fries is about the extent of it. Despite the lack of decent grub Cafeteriat makes a fruit smoothie that is out of this world. Depending on the season one can get any mix of mango, guava, papaya, banana, pineapple and citrus. Some (including yours truly) have taken to calling them dysentery shakes, and if you saw the fly-ridden table where the fruit is cut and blended you would understand why. Yet I can’t think of one time when my intestinal woes could be traced back to Abdurahman. Then again, perhaps I’m just in denial that something so delicious could be harmful in any way.
Mammale Allaitante/Cheese GIC
This place gets bonus points for having “Lactating Mammal” as their name. The reason for this odd title begins with the formation of a community group that produces milk, yoghurt and cheeses at this location with the aid of an Italian organization. Their dairy products have always been immensely popular, especially among expats, and it was only a matter of time before a restaurant was opened on the same site. Today one can order tomato and mozzarella salad, personal pizzas, cheesesteak, homemade ice cream and tiramisu and many other daily specials. After a long difficult stint in Bogo, this restaurant is usually the perfect pick me up.
Niam Niam Glou Glou
This has never been much of a dinner joint, but when the oppressive heat sometimes lifts enough to allow for a more substantial lunch the burger and fries here hits the spot. For somewhere around three bucks one can get a “Hamburger McDonalds style” and fries. I would say this place actually beats McDonalds. That’s not to say that I wouldn’t kill someone for a double quarter-pounder with cheese right now (you think I’m kidding…throw in an apple pie and vanilla milkshake and I’ll kill two people), but McDonalds style here is a fresh roll, spiced and seasoned ground beef, cheese, ketchup, mayo and olives. It may not have that same glorious mix of artificial flavors, pure fat and sodium, but the freshness is hard to beat.
Restaurant Le Noumou
At first I really liked this place. The prices were a bit steep, but it puts out good food and is a nice change every once in a while. I believe they make more money off of catering and opening their massive courtyard to weddings and parties. This might explain why most times when I come in looking for a good sandwich or a plate of steak poivre blanc they look at me as if surprised that I’ve come to their restaurant to order food. I place my order with one of the half dozen employees with nothing to do in the empty restaurant and they take it back to the kitchen. About fifteen minutes later another employee will walk by briskly and exit restaurant, returning shortly with all ingredients for whatever I’ve just ordered. After that its only another 2 hours of sipping on overpriced drinks before the food is actually ready.
Relais de Porte Mayo
When I sit at a table on this restaurant/hotel’s patio with the tree cover and ambient lighting I forget where I am. It is fine dining at its best (in Cameroon), and the prices on the menu reflect that. A volunteer couldn’t exactly afford this place on a regular basis. Spending upwards of 10,000 francs on a meal is hard to justify when equal quantities of delicious (but less so) food can be found for fractions of the price. It’s nice every once in a while and once I start tearing apart the Roquefort salad, mango duck, spaghetti carbonara or banana split my brain shuts down and all cerebral functions not required for shoving food into my mouth are temporarily disabled. Then the plates are empty and I cry a tear of joy for those few minutes of gastronomical bliss.
Cameroon In the News- July 2010
Cameroon farmers doubt elephant chilli ball idea (BBC)
Cameroon capital introduces strict anti-begging measures (BBC)
Cameroon seeks help to boost use of solar power (Reuters)
Cameroon to Mine Gold From Site of Planned Reservoir Before It's Submerged (Bloomberg)
Cameroon denies homosexuals face persecution (BBC)
Pius Njawé, Noted African Journalist, Dies at 53 (New York Times)
Cameroon capital introduces strict anti-begging measures (BBC)
Cameroon seeks help to boost use of solar power (Reuters)
Cameroon to Mine Gold From Site of Planned Reservoir Before It's Submerged (Bloomberg)
Cameroon denies homosexuals face persecution (BBC)
Pius Njawé, Noted African Journalist, Dies at 53 (New York Times)
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